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Old 03-26-2017, 09:32 AM   #20881
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can someone tell me what the name of this 2-tone color is?
[IMG]file:///C:/Users/Blazinas/Desktop/HOONING/Silvia/Original%20Pictures/16199M_5.jpg[/IMG]
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Old 03-26-2017, 09:57 AM   #20882
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Hey guys, so i just installed new brake pads and rotors all the way around. Drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic pads. After install there is now a terrible metal on metal scraping/grinding noise coming from both fronts and possibly the rears. After a little inspection of the driver side front, it looks to me that the rotor is grinding on the metal retaining clip and possibly even the top of the caliper bracket itself. Can anyone give some insight on maybe what i can do? Can the rotors be too big in the front by thousands? Thoughts on just completely ditching the clips? What can be going on here?
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Old 03-26-2017, 11:04 AM   #20883
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Originally Posted by EarlsWorld View Post
can someone tell me what the name of this 2-tone color is?
[IMG]file:///C:/Users/Blazinas/Desktop/HOONING/Silvia/Original%20Pictures/16199M_5.jpg[/IMG]


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Old 03-26-2017, 12:34 PM   #20884
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can someone tell me what the name of this 2-tone color is?
file:///C:/Users/Blazinas/Desktop/HOONING/Silvia/Original%20Pictures/16199M_5.jpg
Lol, you've got to upload the picture, can't just link it from the Hooning photo album on your computer.
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Old 03-26-2017, 05:59 PM   #20885
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Anybody have tips for putting the clutch pedal spring back in? I'm trying to avoid taking the entire assembly out if possible, but I will if that's the only way. thanks!
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Old 03-26-2017, 09:25 PM   #20886
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Lol, you've got to upload the picture, can't just link it from the Hooning photo album on your computer.
lol shit, not very good with technology. gimme 2 minutes to upload that bitch
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Old 03-28-2017, 12:19 PM   #20887
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What is the point of buying an eccentric lockout?? By this I mean am I essentially paying $70 for hardware store high grade bolts? I can't see any differences and I don't see any mentioning of it.

Is everyone brainwashed or is there a difference that I can't seem to notice?
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Old 03-28-2017, 12:34 PM   #20888
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What is the point of buying an eccentric lockout?? By this I mean am I essentially paying $70 for hardware store high grade bolts? I can't see any differences and I don't see any mentioning of it.

Is everyone brainwashed or is there a difference that I can't seem to notice?
Sometimes the stock eccentric bolts can shift throwing Your alignment off. I run eccentric lockout so my alignment I spend 80 bucks on stays true... But you can make your own kit. 10.9 grade bolts

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Old 03-28-2017, 01:19 PM   #20889
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ive been building these shit box cars for over 15 years and have NEVER had my eccentric bolts shift out of place... get a torque wrench, torque to factory spec and quit being a worry wort!

urban myths are nothing more than that... urban myths!

remember how people said S15 trannys were like glass and a waste of money... yeah, urban myth!
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Old 03-28-2017, 01:28 PM   #20890
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ive been building these shit box cars for over 15 years and have NEVER had my eccentric bolts shift out of place... get a torque wrench, torque to factory spec and quit being a worry wort!

urban myths are nothing more than that... urban myths!

remember how people said S15 trannys were like glass and a waste of money... yeah, urban myth!
Worry. Lol no. When I got my car one of the bolts was stripped. It was cheaper to go lock out at the price I paid, rather then finding oem eccentric which I tried and no luck receiving 2 wrong bolts, But I've had some friends that slide have their eccentric bolts move. Even torqued..

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Old 03-28-2017, 02:45 PM   #20891
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Sometimes the stock eccentric bolts can shift throwing Your alignment off. I run eccentric lockout so my alignment I spend 80 bucks on stays true... But you can make your own kit. 10.9 grade bolts

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I know the point of it being centric (not eccentric) but why are the kits $70? Are you sure I can just make my own with grade 10.9 bolts? Why the fuck to people buy the kits then? There has to be a difference? How have so many people bought them and been satisfied with spending $70 on nuts bolts and washers?
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Old 03-28-2017, 03:06 PM   #20892
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Quote:
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I know the point of it being centric (not eccentric) but why are the kits $70? Are you sure I can just make my own with grade 10.9 bolts? Why the fuck to people buy the kits then? There has to be a difference? How have so many people bought them and been satisfied with spending $70 on nuts bolts and washers?
The cost is due to the square washers that center the bolt and "lock out" the adjustment. Kinda overpriced, yes, but your hardware store won't have those plates available.
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Old 03-28-2017, 03:12 PM   #20893
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Local guy is selling a set of Volk GT-C's pretty cheap off an Acura NSX, the size listed is Rears 18 x 10", fronts 18 x 7.5", my questions is if this would work well on an S14?

I know jack shit about wheel fitment so take it easy on me.

EDIT: They are +43 offsets
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Old 03-28-2017, 03:56 PM   #20894
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fronts may need a spacer. rears should be fine. slap some meaty tires on those bishes!!!
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Old 03-28-2017, 03:57 PM   #20895
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Quote:
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The cost is due to the square washers that center the bolt and "lock out" the adjustment. Kinda overpriced, yes, but your hardware store won't have those plates available.
I hate to be the ACKTUALLY guy but both SPL nor VooDoo13 nor Gktech have square washers





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Old 03-28-2017, 04:11 PM   #20896
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I've tried using fenders washers as a temporary replacement but they still slip.

That's why I prefer to buy the kits.
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Old 03-28-2017, 04:23 PM   #20897
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I've tried using fenders washers as a temporary replacement but they still slip.

That's why I prefer to buy the kits.
Interesting to hear, but my question still hasn't been answered.

What is the difference?? All I've learned so far is that the companies that make these douse them in magic non slip fairy dust. The SPL kit litereally looks like 10.9 bolts and washers.

I hope you guys can see where I'm coming from.
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Old 03-28-2017, 04:30 PM   #20898
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The washers aren't just normal washers, they actually take up the right amount of space and don't let the bolt slip. The holes in the subframe are slotted so just throwing a bolt in can/will still slip around, as will a normal washer.

Yes they're sort of overpriced considering the custom washer thing is about the only piece that's not off-the-shelf, but after you add all the 10.9 bolts it's about what it would cost from the hardware store plus the custom washer dealies (that are significantly thicker than a normal washer and accurately sized for the location).
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Old 03-28-2017, 04:31 PM   #20899
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fronts may need a spacer. rears should be fine. slap some meaty tires on those bishes!!!
Fuck I hope you're right, he's running 215/40/18 up front and 235/45's in the rear. My current set up are G35 18's with 225/40/18's and 255/40 rears.

I'm running Z32 front calipers as well if that makes a difference.

I'm looking at less than a G for these wheels if I can make it happen. Is that a steal?
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Old 03-28-2017, 04:51 PM   #20900
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What is the point of buying an eccentric lockout?? By this I mean am I essentially paying $70 for hardware store high grade bolts? I can't see any differences and I don't see any mentioning of it.

Is everyone brainwashed or is there a difference that I can't seem to notice?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9o8nLCW4A4o

2 minute mark... LOL
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Old 03-28-2017, 05:28 PM   #20901
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Update: pieced together a kit with thick square washers from bolt depot for $47 shipped, but I found that I can get GKTech kit for like $50 shipped so I did that for convenience purposes. Kinda feel stupid for paying that much for bolts but I guess if people are ok with it I can be too. Thanks zilvia, yous a real wan.
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Old 03-28-2017, 06:21 PM   #20902
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I have a question about my PCV setup for my KA. I have the motor out to go through it and reseal it before going turbo. I already replaced all the rubber pieces and the pcv valve itself on the pcv system, but now I'm seeing that I should cap/plug the 4 ports and run the valve to a catch can.

I've decided to go that route and run my valve cover fitting to the same can. My question is does this catch tank have to be vented? The place I was planning on mounting it, where the cruise control actuator mounts, is definitely not tall enough for a catch can with a filter on top. Do I just need to suck it up and mount it somewhere else?
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Old 03-29-2017, 03:48 PM   #20903
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Local guy is selling a set of Volk GT-C's pretty cheap off an Acura NSX, the size listed is Rears 18 x 10", fronts 18 x 7.5", my questions is if this would work well on an S14?

I know jack shit about wheel fitment so take it easy on me.

EDIT: They are +43 offsets
Anyone else know wheels that wants to chime in?
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Old 03-29-2017, 04:24 PM   #20904
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fronts may need a spacer. rears should be fine. slap some meaty tires on those bishes!!!
Thats all u need to know man
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Old 03-29-2017, 04:37 PM   #20905
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I've decided to go that route and run my valve cover fitting to the same can. My question is does this catch tank have to be vented? The place I was planning on mounting it, where the cruise control actuator mounts, is definitely not tall enough for a catch can with a filter on top. Do I just need to suck it up and mount it somewhere else?
I run exactly like this, got baffled mishmoto 3 way can. Probably the wrong can for the setup since im not recirculating but I run the two lines from the block port and head and just put a little filter on the out port of the can. Having a system like this is more to keep the engine bay clean of vapers. You could just leave it open and point lines to the floor but that not good for tracks or environment.
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Old 03-29-2017, 04:38 PM   #20906
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Quick question - (I've searched and haven't found an answer)

I have an s13, made in 11/88.

I'm going to replace the flca, and picked up a moog flca with a ball joint. The part denotes that it will work from 02/89 onward. I looked at it closely up against the old flca on the car now, it seems like it'd fit. But I'm curious if anyone has came across this issue before?

I'd like to rock the moog, I'm aware of the alternatives from pdm, etc;

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks
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Old 03-29-2017, 04:43 PM   #20907
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I run exactly like this, got baffled mishmoto 3 way can. Probably the wrong can for the setup since im not recirculating but I run the two lines from the block port and head and just put a little filter on the out port of the can. Having a system like this is more to keep the engine bay clean of vapers. You could just leave it open and point lines to the floor but that not good for tracks or environment.
Well the can I'm looking at has 2 ports and no vent, so is that a no go?
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Old 03-29-2017, 04:45 PM   #20908
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I guess worst case ontario I could put a T inline and run a filter off that
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Old 03-29-2017, 05:21 PM   #20909
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Yeah you could run a tee, both have positive pressure. I wanted to have separate just for aesthetics purpose since I redid my whole engine bay. Also if your def not in FL there is a 240 meet coming up soon. FL is huge but its down here in the south by Miami/fort lauderdale area.
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Old 03-29-2017, 05:45 PM   #20910
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My tach has suddenly started bouncing around erratically at or near 4k rpm, the radio also turns off when it happens. The more throttle when it happens the worse the bouncing is.

The only background info that seems applicable is my wiring specialties harness and quest alternator.

Oh. 1993 fastback with a KADE.
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