My S13 Build Progress - 56K Warning

[jrmiller84]

Originally Posted by ni5mo240

that sucks man, the wg actuator won't move just by revving the engine, to check it shoot compressed air with a nozzle into the wg actuator line and you should see it open and close.

Really? I thought it would actuate under enough boost? When I had the motor out of the car I pushed on it to make sure it would open inside of the turbo and it opened fine. I had to push pretty hard but it still opened none the less.

[niSm095]

the boost issue i also had a problem with and it was the wastegate. mine would spike up to about 15psi as well, just had to get a new one.

[statik]

you cannot set the timing if the car won't stay running on its own. Just out of curiosity have you done a compression test and a leakdown? I would start out by setting the mechanical timing again, remove the valve cover, bring the motor to TDC, make sure theres 20 rollers between the 2 dots on the cam gears to make sure no one botched the timing before you got it. The intake dot on the cam gear should be at 10 oclock and the exhaust dot should be at 1 oclock, then restab the cas and go from there. As for the turbo, I've never been able to build 15psi at idle, I wonder if this has something to do with the timing. You can test the actuator using a compressor, stock actuator sucks anyway =]

[jrmiller84]

Originally Posted by statik

you cannot set the timing if the car won't stay running on its own. Just out of curiosity have you done a compression test and a leakdown? I would start out by setting the mechanical timing again, remove the valve cover, bring the motor to TDC, make sure theres 20 rollers between the 2 dots on the cam gears to make sure no one botched the timing before you got it. The intake dot on the cam gear should be at 10 oclock and the exhaust dot should be at 1 oclock, then restab the cas and go from there. As for the turbo, I've never been able to build 15psi at idle, I wonder if this has something to do with the timing. You can test the actuator using a compressor, stock actuator sucks anyway =]

I was under the impression they did one from the shop when I bought it. I suppose I should do one myself to be sure.The turbo doesn't build 15 psi from idling though, it builds 15 psi when I rev it to keep it going.

I gotta figure out how I'm gonna get air for the compression test now, hmmmmm.

[JDS Performance]

Originally Posted by jrmiller84

Work Day 21

Today was a hard day. It was incredibly hot in Florida. My unit faces west so after midday, the sun shines right into it. I've never felt like I was closer to a heat stroke.

Word to the wise, everyone who thinks this is a one man job and keeps posting that they are impressed, don't be. If I had actually had a heat stroke, no one would have been there to help me. Please get help if you decide to do a swap the way I am.

Luckily I was able to get the engine out and back in before I left so all the hard work is done now.

I forgot to take my camera today so I don't have any pictures but I did solve the transmission mystery.

When I got the fork out, I compared it to the KA fork.

The SR fork was 1 inch longer than the KA fork.

So after that I put the KA fork in the SR transmission and it was a perfect fit. The slave cylinder aligns up perfectly now. The TOB and fork seemed to fit better as well. It felt slightly more snug on the TOB while the other one felt like a sloppy fit. After that I bolted the tranny and starter back up to the motor and hoisted it back in.

S14DB notified me that the motor may be a 180sx type X SR, perhaps that's why it's so different. I couldn't find any information about them so I can't be sure. I suppose that would explain a lot though.

Tomorrow I will be finishing the install except for the intercooler piping, which I am waiting to get back from the welder on Monday. I got the motor back in and I just have to reconnect the wiring harness, the slave cylinder line, and some other minor stuff.

Pictures tomorrow if I don't forget my camera

Man that sux you had to pull it agin - I just finished up a 5 speed swap and I do everything by myself all the time.
I ran into tranny issues after my install tranny was stuck in 3rd and 5th at the same time - as the shift rods fell into gear without me even checking them before install - as I never heard of this issue until it happened to me.

But yes I recommend anyone pulling the tranny from under the car have at least 1 helper - as this is "Very" dangerous and a huge PITA!!!
The tranny jack is work every penny

[JDS Performance]

Originally Posted by jrmiller84

I was under the impression they did one from the shop when I bought it. I suppose I should do one myself to be sure.The turbo doesn't build 15 psi from idling though, it builds 15 psi when I rev it to keep it going.

I gotta figure out how I'm gonna get air for the compression test now, hmmmmm.

air? you dont need air you need a compression tester and a fully charged battery If you need a FSM download one from my site if you like - http://www.KA24DETDVD.org in the FSM section

[420sx]

i have a type x 180sx motor and there is no major difference from blacktop/redtop s13 from other years only difference is the ecu thats j4.....

[jrmiller84]

Originally Posted by JDS Performance

air? you dont need air you need a compression tester and a fully charged battery If you need a FSM download one from my site if you like - http://www.KA24DETDVD.org in the FSM section

I didn't realize you just crank the car over a couple times. This is my first time doing a lot of things so forgive me I'm going to test it tomorrow on my lunch break, time to read the FSM for the values.

[statik]

Sorry didnt mean at idle, I meant in neutral revving the motor, I never see more than a few psi. If the car runs at all im sure the compression is ok, but just for reference all you need is the compression tester, remove all the spark plugs, insert the tester into cyl 1 and crank the motor for about 5 seconds with the throttle wide open, repeat for the other cylinders. Average for an SR is around 150psi. If a cylinder seems lower than the others by more than 10psi, try adding a tiny bit of oil (usually just fill the oil bottle cap) and test again, if compression rises the rings are worn but it doesnt mean the motor is bad, if it doesnt go up with oil then its probably valves seals. If compression is low between 2 adjacent cylinders its possible theres a head gasket leak.

[Farzam]

Figure this out, the suspense is causing me grief.

[opponheimer]

During compression test hold throttle all the way open, crank until needle won't go any higher... Disconnect your injector clips too.


Also take out all your spark plugs, your motor will turn over faster = better oil flow to the squirters and a quicker test.

Have you thought about swapping ecus with someone else's (redtop will work) and seeing how your car runs?

[jrmiller84]

Originally Posted by opponheimer

During compression test hold throttle all the way open, crank until needle won't go any higher... Disconnect your injector clips too.


Also take out all your spark plugs, your motor will turn over faster = better oil flow to the squirters and a quicker test.

Have you thought about swapping ecus with someone else's (redtop will work) and seeing how your car runs?

Honestly, I don't know anyone else around G-Ville with an SR. I've seen a couple turbo'd KA's, but that's about it. So my chances of bumming an ecu off of someone around here is slim to none, sadly.

Compression test at noon, hopefully! I left my wallet at home today, hopefully the fiance isn't being a slackass and will bring it to me

[statik]

Originally Posted by opponheimer

During compression test hold throttle all the way open, crank until needle won't go any higher... Disconnect your injector clips too.

Ah yes I forgot to mention that, just disconnect the CAS, without a signal the ecu wont fire injectors or coilpacks.

[jrmiller84]

Originally Posted by statik

Ah yes I forgot to mention that, just disconnect the CAS, without a signal the ecu wont fire injectors or coilpacks.

Yeah, that's what I've been doing to keep them from firing. I hope these numbers come out right.

I forgot to mention, I looked at the FAQ and it seems that a Senta SE-R exhaust manifold gasket will fit. I'm going to install it today and see if that helps any, surely can't hurt.

[S14DB]

Dang, I saw on the news that a 14yr old girl got run over by a red car in Ocala and I hoped that you got your car running.

[jrmiller84]

Originally Posted by S14DB

Dang, I saw on the news that a 14yr old girl got run over by a red car in Ocala and I hoped that you got your car running.

Holy shit, haha. That's the first thing I'm going to do, drift through a school zone I kid, I kid!

[jrmiller84]

Work Day 26 [Back to index]

I fucking figured it out. I got the motor running correctly today after work. I bought a compression tester and it passed with flying colors across the board, between 150-155. And then it hit me... I'll let the video I took do the initial talking.



That's right, I did not hook up the brake booster line. I had been putting it off thinking "oh, thats just for the brakes" when I knew good and well that it connected to the intake manifold. Without it connected, the engine was not getting the air pressure it expected from the MAF and died as a result.

I feel like an idiot for it taking so long to click but damnit I feel a whole lot better knowing the motor is in good condition. Especially after a compression test AND it running like it's supposed to.

The last problem that I can visually see with the motor is the smoke that is coming from the exhaust manifold/turbo area. It looks as though it's coming directly off of the manifold but that doesn't make any sense. I'm assuming it's coming from the water or oil lines maybe? I got underneath the car to see if I could find where the smoke was coming from but no dice. The only things I can think of are that possibly one of the banjo bolts isn't on tight enough or in the correct direction (although I marked the bolts to make sure they were right), a bad gasket somewhere, or the turbo itself??? I also thought it might be the new elbow/exhaust pieces but I don't know about that. It doesn't smell sweet like radiator fluid so I'm not sure. I took another video so everyone could see and maybe give some advice.



If nothing comes of it, I may have to take the turbo back off again, inspect it, and reinstall it assuming it seems good

Also, in the video I said that the radiator fans weren't coming on correctly. That's not true, after I finished the video they came on correctly. Just have to hide the wires now and she'll be good to go in that department.

I'm fucking stoked.

[Ninjabread]

OK, I'll take a wild guess and say it's your manifold leaking, because it looks like the puff of smokes are comming from the runners and are all seperate. Maybe it just needs a new gasket.

Btw, she's looking healthy. Happy you got her running!

[kidswole]

dude that is sweet,

good luck

[jrmiller84]

Originally Posted by Matt89

OK, I'll take a wild guess and say it's your manifold leaking, because it looks like the puff of smokes are comming from the runners and are all seperate. Maybe it just needs a new gasket.

Btw, she's looking healthy. Happy you got her running!

Thanks! I know for a fact she needs a new exhaust manifold gasket (I plan on replacing it either Thursday or this weekend) but would it continue to smoke after the car is shut off if that was the problem? I hope that's all it is. It dies down fairly quick I suppose (a minute or so).

Now that I think of it, when I had the spark plugs out and it was smoking, smoke was coming out of one of the spark plug holes. That seems like it might verify that theory. Can anyone discount that?

[JDS Performance]

It does look as your manifold is leaking - But FYI it will burn off oil from your hands etc for a lil while too - or if you have heat wrap etc.

also your top radiator hose looks kinked - I would trim it down to get rid of that

it depends on how you got your fans hooked up really - but usually they wont come on until the thermostat gets hot enough - but you do need at least 1 fan running pretty much all the time - with a turbo motor you are going to have serious heat issues - but thats a whole different descusion there

[JDS Performance]

also keep check on your temps - if you keep running it without bleeding the coolant - you dont not want to run that motor hot - then you will be replacing a head gasket - and I know you dont wanna do that at this stage.

also on the smoke issue - it comes on pretty fast - I would assume its just a film of somthing on the manifold itself - but keep check on that!

On my KA-T I wrapped my downpipe and it smoked like that for a lil while - and with the turbo motor heat comes on quickly.

I would bleed the radiator/coolant as soon as possable - and fix that kinked hose - then check out the fan issue - and then the heat issue

- you need to turn that car around - or your gonna kill yourself with carbon monoxide from the exhaust filled room!

[jrmiller84]

Originally Posted by JDS Performance

also keep check on your temps - if you keep running it without bleeding the coolant - you dont not want to run that motor hot - then you will be replacing a head gasket - and I know you dont wanna do that at this stage.

also on the smoke issue - it comes on pretty fast - I would assume its just a film of somthing on the manifold itself - but keep check on that!

On my KA-T I wrapped my downpipe and it smoked like that for a lil while - and with the turbo motor heat comes on quickly.

I would bleed the radiator/coolant as soon as possable - and fix that kinked hose - then check out the fan issue - and then the heat issue

- you need to turn that car around - or your gonna kill yourself with carbon monoxide from the exhaust filled room!

Yeah, it is slightly kinked, not too much though. Reason being that the bolts that the radiators top mounts fix to broke off in the holes so it's not mounted flush yet. I have to drill the remnants of those bolts out and mount the radiator correctly still.

I actually bled the radiator today. Before it got too hot, I took the radiator cap off and let it idle for about 5-10 minutes. I'm going to bleed it again on Thursday to be extra safe. I'll also be replacing that gasket and attempting to check the banjo bolts to make extra sure everything is correct.

The fumes do get bad but I make a point to make sure the car doesn't run too long and get out of there while it airs out. The fumes get pulled out pretty quickly with the wind being what it is out there. Plus the units have a few vents here and there that help.

EDIT: On a side note, the temperature gauge did look normal today when it got to operating temperature. Went up a little around midway and chilled right there.

[statik]

fix the belts, and replace that manifold gasket. I would _like_ to say its just stuff burning off of the manifold, its very common especially for something that sat for so long. I would make sure there are NO leaks from the turbo lines or anywhere else, move it outside of the storage unit and let it run for a bit, even go for a drive, take it from there. Don't forget to set the timing.

[opponheimer]

I honestly think it may be stuff on your manifold burning off.. But check all nuts and bolts for tightness. When you put your turbo on the manifold be sure that you used the factory t25 inlet gasket from a z32.

Your car will smell weird and smoke a lot for a little while. New exhaust/piping has impurities, residues, machining oil, etc left inside the piping. I remember my car smoked for a good hour.

One Idea: smell the smoke, if it smells like exhaust, you have a leak, if it Doesn't then its not a leak..

Congrats on getting it running, told ya it was something small

[opponheimer]

I think your air leak just may be the BOV sticking open a little while too long, you can try tightening it and see if that helps. It sounds great though, and who gives a fuck if you have a red vaccum tube!

I do think your rad hose will need trimmed though... and if you cant get broke bolts out, drill your own mounting holes.. About your belts; I'd just get some belt dressing spray and squirt em down or see if it goes away after a while. Lookin good!

[jrmiller84]

Originally Posted by statik

fix the belts, and replace that manifold gasket. I would _like_ to say its just stuff burning off of the manifold, its very common especially for something that sat for so long. I would make sure there are NO leaks from the turbo lines or anywhere else, move it outside of the storage unit and let it run for a bit, even go for a drive, take it from there. Don't forget to set the timing.

Yeah, I'm going to try and take care of some of that(belts and timing) on my lunch break tomorrow and the rest (hopefully) on Wednesday. When I replace the exhaust gasket, I'll make sure the banjo bolts are on good, like you said, to make sure there are no leaks. I may need to buy one of those small mirrors to see the tubes on the back of the turbo. They're such a bitch to get to.

Originally Posted by oopenheimer

I do think your rad hose needs trimmed though...

I think it may be like an inch too long. Other than that, it's the radiator leaning forward slightly because of the radiator mounts not being on yet.

[ruben705]

man. i seriously just spent like 4 hours going through all this.. and i feel like it was 4 hours very well spent. effing awesome. it was almost like a book, without the happy ending of you drifting out of the storage and into teh sunset amazingly.. but hey that happens soon! congrats on everything and being a champ and doing it yourself i lack that kind of patience.

[S14DB]

Hook up the breather line to the intake so you get rid of another source of unmetered air.

[statik]

Originally Posted by S14DB

Hook up the breather line to the intake so you get rid of another source of unmetered air.

he has the enjuku intake kit I believe which doesn't have the recirc or breather sources on it.