Megan Racing Turbo Outlet -Elbow o2 question

[-usmd-180sx]

Originally Posted by msaskin

ALL o2 sensors work via what's called a nernst cell, and output what is called the Nernst scale. They're all the same, any o2 sensor from any car (save for ones with factory widebands) will work on any other car. Sure, you may run into other issues (1, 2, 3 wires), but so long as you splice the sensor wire in properly, it'll be fine. The other wires are for o2 sensor heaters, which increase response time (o2 sensors don't work when cold), but beyond that, the output is always the same.



~matt

Muchos Gracias!

[S13E]

that is what i thought. I've been using KA24E single wire sensors on my SR, i swapped the KA bung onto the stock SR elbow. It just takes an extra few minutes to heat up without the 3 wire heated ones and the sensors cost less.

[msaskin]

Exactly. Either way, even though it takes longer to heat up the car takes a few minutes to warm up anyhow, and when the car is in warm up mode it operates closed-loop, meaning it ignores the o2 sensor anyhow

What does a generic 1 wire o2 cost? Like, $20?

~matt

[-usmd-180sx]

can i just buy an o2 sensor nut off a 86 200sx turbo 1.8 and just stick my skinny (stock redtop) o2 sensor into the nut i bought.. or will it not work??

[msaskin]

Read my above posts. Buy ANY o2 sensor that fits the threading/nut, splice away, you're done.

~matt

[-usmd-180sx]

does anyone know the exact size of the nut on the Megan Racing outlet.. so i can go ahead and purchase the correct open ended wrench as i pick up an o2 sensor.. thanks

[mrmephistopheles]

msaskin - awesome info. I'm MUCH more enlightened now. I was of the understanding they operated more like a MAF, showing different voltages at different instances.

[Joe_M]

My Megan Racing O2 housing came with a threaded adapter for the o2 sensor. Since it was going on my CA and it has a fatty o2 sensor, I didn't need the reducer. I might still have it somewhere.

If you still need one, let me know. It's yours if I can find it.

Joe

[msaskin]

Originally Posted by mrmephistopheles

msaskin - awesome info. I'm MUCH more enlightened now. I was of the understanding they operated more like a MAF, showing different voltages at different instances.

Well, sort of, but they're all the same

0-1v, fixed A/F ratio scale. Here's the chart:

Originally Posted by Courtesy of plxdevices.com

~matt

[mrmephistopheles]

Originally Posted by Joe_M

My Megan Racing O2 housing came with a threaded adapter for the o2 sensor. Since it was going on my CA and it has a fatty o2 sensor, I didn't need the reducer. I might still have it somewhere.

If you still need one, let me know. It's yours if I can find it.

Joe

Dibs !

[-usmd-180sx]

its irrelevant to this question.. but i tried taking out my stock outlet pipe today..omg.. it was such a Bitch.. and i couldnt even finish the job.. those bolts are so fkn rusted and a bitch to get off.. i dunno how u could do it..i stopped when i couldnt budge any of those bolts ontop of the outlet pipe connecting to the exhaust turbine.. anyone have any good tips on getting pesky exhaust bolts off like a piece of cake? cuz.. seriously.. i dont wanna dish out 80 bucks to have a muffler shop do it..

can u also tell me what ur choice of tools are when u took the pipe off.. i am so far tryna to use a open ended 13 metric.. but but with know luck.. haha good lucky anyhow tryna get exhaust bolts off with an open ended wrench... no extension.. damn.. im so tired..

[mrmephistopheles]

Originally Posted by -usmd-180sx

anyone have any good tips on getting pesky exhaust bolts off like a piece of cake?

WD40.

Before you get frustrated because you think I'm giving you the Standard Form ID 10-T answer, think about this:
When I worked at Nissan, a recall was issued on certain year V6 Xterras for exhaust manifold replacement. The recall job was said to be a 10 hour job (iirc), which means it'll take the average professional mechanic 10 working hours to complete the recall. After a few months of this, the guys at my shop started presoaking the exhaust manifold bolts with WD40, warming the engine to operating temperature, and applying some more after they shut it off.
The bolts came off like melted butter, and they were able to do a 10-hour job in about 4 hours (even though they'd still get paid for 10.)

[-usmd-180sx]

lol.. very interesting story man.. ill try presoaking them and running the engine and repeating the order.. u think liquid wrench or pb blaster will work up to par as well too?

[mrmephistopheles]

dunno.
We went through cans and cans of WD40.

[msaskin]

PB blaster would work better...it's like the crazy crack-head brother of WD40

~matt

[SirWarrior]

Originally Posted by msaskin

PB blaster would work better...it's like the crazy crack-head brother of WD40

Yep, when he's on speed and smoked an ounce of angel-dust!!!!!!!!!

[-usmd-180sx]

Ok. heres an update on my progress. So far i have actually installed the MR outlet pipe flawlessly. But the only problem i am facing right now is.. that the new o2 sensor that i have bought, the wires seem TOO short too reach the connector under the hood..

i purchased the Bosch #13276 200sx 1.8T o2 sensor (fatty)

well i was wondering if i can just splice the wires off the stock o2 sensor(skinny) to the (fatty) o2 sensor.

The Bosch sensor has a color diagram of (left to right) white,black,white

While the stock sensor wires are (left to right) red,black,white.. OR white,black,red.. whichever side you consider "top" of the harness..

So my question is.. which wires should i splice them to? Im guessing black is ground on both the sensors..but can anyone clarifiy on this to how i should splice the old wires to the new so i can elongate the (fatty) sensor to connect to the harness?

Sorry if i am not clear on explaing this.. I tried my best.. ill get some pictures up to show what i mean in a bit.

[msaskin]

Did the bosch sensor box (or paper with it) say which wire does what?

My suggestion is to just match the wires up. Wiring colors are [semi]standard for a reason.

~matt

[-usmd-180sx]

Originally Posted by msaskin

Did the bosch sensor box (or paper with it) say which wire does what?

My suggestion is to just match the wires up. Wiring colors are [semi]standard for a reason.

~matt

The Bosch sensor didnt come with any color diagram to tell what wires does what.. but i did upload to the pictures.. can anyone give me input?

the harness with the red wire is the "skinny" o2 sensor from the stock o2 wiring..

https://home.comcast.net/~180sxdrifter/Picture_001.jpg
https://home.comcast.net/~180sxdrifter/Picture_002.jpg

thanks

P.S. This might be a stupid question.. and you can flame me for this.. but how long can i run "safely" without an o2 sensor pluged in.. and if your answer is "not safe" plz help guide in the right direction to splicing this wires correctly for me to install.. thanks

[mrmephistopheles]

weird. I figured they were plug & play.

[-usmd-180sx]

Originally Posted by mrmephistopheles

weird. I figured they were plug & play.

I wish they were plug and play.. but the "fatty" o2 sensor wires were too short for the connectors to meet.. so i am here in this postion to splice.. and elongate the new o2 sensor i picked up

[mrmephistopheles]

so it's just the wire length that's keeping you from plugging it in, or will it not plug in at all?

oh, and as far as how safe it is to run without one... it's not terribly unsafe, your gas mileage will just really suck. A buddy of mine ran without an 02 for... i dunno 9-10 months? It was installed in the car, just not wired in. That's what he got for ratfucking his wiring and trying to eliminate EVERYTHING! In the end, he hooked it up and got better gas mileage.

[-usmd-180sx]

Originally Posted by mrmephistopheles

so it's just the wire length that's keeping you from plugging it in, or will it not plug in at all?

oh, and as far as how safe it is to run without one... it's not terribly unsafe, your gas mileage will just really suck. A buddy of mine ran without an 02 for... i dunno 9-10 months? It was installed in the car, just not wired in. That's what he got for ratfucking his wiring and trying to eliminate EVERYTHING! In the end, he hooked it up and got better gas mileage.

Yea. its just the length of the wire that is keeping me from plugging it in.. also the connector for the new o2 sensor doesnt seem to plug into the harness under the hood.. so i figured i can just use the old connector and the old wires to elongate it so i can connect it. would it work without and trouble? 1-2-3 wires spliced to 1-2-3 wires?

[msaskin]

That would work fine. Also, you can run indefinitely w/out the o2 sensor, the car will just get horrible gas mileage and probably run like hell.

~matt

[Touring240]

It was plug and play on my red top.
The bosch sensor you got is the same on I'm using. plugged right into my o2 sensor harness.
I guess my o2 wires were extended a little farther than yours.

[-usmd-180sx]

That would work fine. Also, you can run indefinitely w/out the o2 sensor, the car will just get horrible gas mileage and probably run like hell.

~matt

Yea, i figured that much.. my gas was fkn drained quicker than i expected going to school and back.

Originally Posted by Touring240

It was plug and play on my red top.
The bosch sensor you got is the same on I'm using. plugged right into my o2 sensor harness.
I guess my o2 wires were extended a little farther than yours.

Hmm.. i wish i had purchased one with extended wires.. but mine is ridiculously short.. seriiously.. and for the harness.. i dunno why mine wouldnt click into place.. it would just sit there.. but it would click into its spot..

Well.. imma try splicing the old harness and wiring to the new o2 sensor and hopefully this is another lesson to be learned.. lol.. wish i didnt have to jerry rigg the damn thing

[Blitzspec200sx]

Originally Posted by sciamop

Λ Side by side look. The size of the MR elbow is more evident when looked at from the o2 sensor side (I didn't get that pic b/c my camera is a POS).

Is the bottom of the megan racing of the same size as the original O2 housing.
I mean, will my standard downpipe still fit if i get the megan racing o2 housing.

[Ritz S14]

Ok. For most universal type O2 sensor Black is usually the SIGNAL wire.
As for the other two, it doesn't make a huge difference where they go. Because your heater has no polarity, they can go on either side.

The heater has a a resistor, once voltage is applied it will heat up the o2 sensor so it can fluctate and go to "close loop" faster.

[Requeim]

Dear God thank you Sciamop, you saved me

[UNISA JECS]

Originally Posted by msaskin

ALL o2 sensors work via what's called a nernst cell, and output what is called the Nernst scale. They're all the same, any o2 sensor from any car (save for ones with factory widebands) will work on any other car. Sure, you may run into other issues (1, 2, 3 wires), but so long as you splice the sensor wire in properly, it'll be fine. The other wires are for o2 sensor heaters, which increase response time (o2 sensors don't work when cold), but beyond that, the output is always the same.



~matt

Sorry I know this thread is old but im faced with the situation of megan racing o2 elbow with skinny o2 sensor.

Second the above statement is false to anyone that reads this ion the future:

If you really want to get down to teh nitty grider be prepaired to do some research, I dont feel like going into a whoel big spill about it so if you want just read this thread thouroughly:

http://www.sr20forum.com/240sx/12447...explained.html

***note all o2 sensors are NOT created equally, this goes for non-wide band o2 also, it really boils down to what you ECU is refferenced for (Zirconia vs Titanis), DONT ever trust the ECU or harness that comes with your swap unless you actually got a complete front cut unmolested clip becasue ECU and harnesses get passsed around like dirty whores, thats word to the wise. On page 4 of the link you will find a sure fire way to tell what o2 sensor your ECU requies, hope this helps.

I'll quote myself here anyways:

Originally Posted by UNISA JECS

To the thread that has not died yet!
I'll add some more info to this great thread since charlie2020 is no more.......
Tesing Methods to figure which o2 sensor your ECU requies:
Testing will be done at the signal wire on the ECU side of harness (its usually a white/off white to yellowish in color) here you will use paper clips or what have you to back probe the harness and attach one probe of your multi-meter (have multi-meter set to volts) to the paper clip or what have you and the other probe to ground (chassis/battery) and with the key on and engine off and multi-meter set to volts:

All below is with key on engine off:
For Zirconia refferenced ECU (ex. B13 SR, B14 SR, S13 KA even though its singal wire o2 its still relevant):
~0.32 volts DC
Zirconia o2 sensor
Middle white wire - signal
For Titania refferenced ECU (ex. RNN14 GTi-R, and certain year JDM Silvia's):
~0.025 volts DC
Titania o2 sensor
Middle black wire - signal
Also you will not be able to monitor Titania refferenced ECU's with o2 gauges or what have you since its not based off the 0-1 volt principle of the Zirconia sensor. Hope this helps

AND BY THE WAY DOES ANYONE KNOW IF MEGAN SELLS THE SKINNY O2 SENSOR ADAPATOR?