S13 SR Turbo Coolant Return (please read and comment) - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

g6civcx · 01-24-2006, 12:01 PM

Problem:

Okay, here's the problem. The stock S13 SR20DET turbo coolant return line is routed to the back of the motor at the factory. When the motor is already installed in the car, it is very difficult to get back there since there is very little clearance. Plus there will be additional chances of damaging the hose fittings back there, which would be very difficult to repair.

This picture shows the return hose. Note where the braided line goes. It's very hard to get to that fitting without having to pull out a lot of wiring and hoses.

I checked with a few sources on how to re-route that line, and I wasn't very happy with what I found.

Solution 1:

Install a new line and fittings/clamps when you prep the motor out of the car prior to installation. This is definitely the best way if you still have the motor out. Not good if it's already in.

Solution 2:

Install a water outlet from an S14 or newer SR20DET. Nissan addressed this problem in the newer generation motor by tapping the water outlet for the return line. You can see the new water outlet below, and the full write-up is here: http://www.sr20tuning.com/fittingaturbo.html

This part is very hard to find. I already tried calling all the local shops. Then I started contacting major Nissan parts supplier, and nobody can get a hold of one. If you're lucky, you'll find a blown S14 motor and you can pick it off, but I wasn't so lucky.

Solution 3:

Fabricate a tap with the stock water outlet. This could work, but it's also very difficult to source a stock S13 water outlet so I could not risk the machine shop damaging the part.

Solution 4:

Blitz makes a silicone upper radiator hose for the SR. It comes with a bung meant for the water temperature probe. I imagine you could insert a hose fitting and tap it for the water return line. The cost is around $120 shipped.

Solution 5:

I got in touch with a vendor over on SR20Forum. He manufactures custom water outlet adapter plates (amongst other things) that has fittings for a coolant return line. He doesn't have any RWD application at the moment, but I've been corresponding with him to try to help him develop some adapters and bring them to market. Cost will be around $40. His site is under development: http://www.customsteel.com/sr20/

So right now I've put the words out on #3 so that's out of my hands. A couple of shops are looking for me but chances are slim. I'm going to look more into #4, and he's working on #5.

If anybody has a good solution to this, please post up. Thanks for your time.

nissantuner22 · 01-24-2006, 12:22 PM

Just to touch on solution 5, i toyed with that exact idea. The problem is, take a look at your water outlet neck. Theres not enough room for that spacer. If you look at it, you'll understand what I mean. The water neck is a good idea, I would go that way. Just tap the one you have now. Tapping is not hard at all, just take your time and make sure you use the right size.

Z3NK1 · 01-24-2006, 12:24 PM

I just used a hack saw to cut the stock coolant return line further down where it starts heading towards the turbo, and stuck on the new braided line. All with the motor in the car....beacuse you're right, it's impossible to get at the back of the motor with all the wiring and brake lines in the way.

lok · 01-24-2006, 12:26 PM

I also noticed that the rear hose was really hard to install when the motor was already in and the fact that it is hard to run the line without damaging it or other stuff.

I just kept the factory hard line since it is easy to bend out of the way and it only installs with a factory hose clamp.

The s14 water neck would be the easiest fix if you could find one.

Dousan_PG · 01-24-2006, 12:40 PM

s14 water neck imo is the best route.

g6civcx · 01-24-2006, 12:42 PM

Okay, thanks for the comments.

Quote:

Just to touch on solution 5, i toyed with that exact idea. The problem is, take a look at your water outlet neck. Theres not enough room for that spacer. If you look at it, you'll understand what I mean.

I took a picture of the redtop waterneck. Can you point out the clearance issues? It has the CAS on the left, manifold on the right. So I think the best way is to go up, yes?

Quote:

I just used a hack saw to cut the stock coolant return line further down where it starts heading towards the turbo, and stuck on the new braided line. All with the motor in the car

That's a good idea. The only problem is there is still a rubber hose back there to connect the two hard lines together. It would suck if you blow that hose on the track and the motor is smoking hot so you can't get back there to seal them up.

Please keep the comments coming.

g6civcx · 01-24-2006, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dousan_PG

s14 water neck imo is the best route.

At this rate, I'm going to have to find somebody with a newer motor and borrow it...

Dousan_PG · 01-24-2006, 12:46 PM

dang i found one i 3 days
did you CALL places around the country??

g6civcx · 01-24-2006, 12:54 PM

I worked my way around all the local shops. Then I started going down the list with places people here usually go to. Most places don't have it. Some places don't like to answer their phones and emails. Courtesy told me they don't have it. I have Performance Nissan looking for an OEM part from Japan for me. That would be ideal, but I think that's a long shot.

I'll keep looking I guess. I was toying with #5 because he only wants $40 shipped for it, and it doesn't look too bad.

Dousan_PG · 01-24-2006, 12:56 PM

call shops in CA
sr20store.com
phase2motortrend (email them)
ooh my friends at Garage WOrks probably has one www.garageworksltd.com
um..venus auto, who else...jspec..mmmm g-dimension.com
etc etc etc
heavy throttle?
jarco?

i called like 8 shops and i found one by 2 day and had it in hands on day 3. takes time and energy but it pays off.

g6civcx · 01-24-2006, 01:23 PM

Thanks for the tip. I already contacted a few of the ones you posted there.
I'm waiting on one place, and if they can't come through then I'm going to hit up everybody else left.

1mns13 · 01-24-2006, 01:32 PM

Thanks for the info on the S14 coolant neck. That is the route I would take.

nissantuner22 · 01-24-2006, 01:36 PM

hahaahah I'm a moron, my apologies. I commented about a FEED, not a return. I thought you were trying to get the feed to the turbo, in which case you would have needed to tap off where the thermostat is, on that housing. If that was the case, you couldn't fit the adapter in question there. But if your talking about the RETURN, that bracket your talking about should work if he makes you one.

Of course, you can always just use the Throttle body coolant lines, like the FWD guys do.

lok · 01-24-2006, 01:37 PM

venus auto usually has parts like this. when my friend needed just the bell housing for his sr they were the only ones willing to part with just the bell housing.

Z3NK1 · 01-24-2006, 02:25 PM

[QUOTE=g6civcx]
That's a good idea. The only problem is there is still a rubber hose back there to connect the two hard lines together. It would suck if you blow that hose on the track and the motor is smoking hot so you can't get back there to seal them up.
QUOTE]

Good point.....

Back to the drawing board

g6civcx · 01-24-2006, 02:57 PM

I pulled off the hose that connects the metal coolant return line to the block. You can see it here. It's connected by little spring clips that were very difficult to get. It took a lot of patience to get out. I can't imagine doing this at the track when the motor is hot and you're short on time.

The rubber has hardened, and the weave is starting to stray. It looks good on the outside, but the rubber coating is really just cosmetic. It's the weaving inside that gives the hose its strength and structural integrity.

If you're curious where it mounts, look at the picture below. The red line is that rubber tube there. It mounts up to the block and connects to the blue line, which is the turbo coolant return line. If you get the Taka S13 T25 kit, it replaces both the rubber and metal lines.

g6civcx · 01-24-2006, 07:55 PM

Also, http://www.performancenissanparts.com/ can get it by special order from Japan for about $75 apiece.

SirWarrior · 01-25-2006, 11:49 AM

even if you go with S14 waterneck deal, you still have to get to that hardline to plug it up. So why not just do the SS line??

Dousan_PG · 01-25-2006, 11:58 AM

yeah s14 waterneck w/ ss line
DONE
takamotorsports.com

g6civcx · 01-25-2006, 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SirWarrior

even if you go with S14 waterneck deal, you still have to get to that hardline to plug it up. So why not just do the SS line??

The S14 water outlet will allow you to access the line much more easily since it's right where coolant flows from the block to the upper radiator hose, below the cam angle sensor. The advantage to this is if you remove your turbo often, such is necessary with tuning and rebuilding, it will consume less time.

The problem isn't working with the car in the shop. When it's here, I have as much time to do whatever I want. The problem is when you are at the track, and that coolant line ruptures, you have a hot motor, leaking coolant, and limited time to fix it while your precious track day is winding away. I am after reliability, simplicity, and cost savings in both time and money.

Plugging up that hard line isn't a big deal. It's a one shot deal. I just don't want pressurised hot coolant running back there since it increases the risk of a rupture.

Nissan already thought about this and this is why they changed it for the S14. We're just retrofitting the solution to the older redtop.

g6civcx · 01-25-2006, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dousan_PG

yeah s14 waterneck w/ ss line
DONE
takamotorsports.com

+1 on all counts

Dousan_PG · 01-25-2006, 12:35 PM

ill be up at GW working on my friends car alllllll day long. (rebuild w/ big turbo going in again)
soill look for one
if they have one ill buy it and sell it to you w/ shipping costs.

kepe u updated and let u know friday.

peace

g6civcx · 01-25-2006, 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dousan_PG

ill be up at GW working on my friends car alllllll day long. (rebuild w/ big turbo going in again)
soill look for one
if they have one ill buy it and sell it to you w/ shipping costs.

kepe u updated and let u know friday.

peace

HOOK IT UP///

killjoy · 01-31-2006, 12:34 PM

I just ordered one from sr20store for 75 shipped.

SirWarrior · 01-31-2006, 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by g6civcx

The problem isn't working with the car in the shop. When it's here, I have as much time to do whatever I want. The problem is when you are at the track, and that coolant line ruptures, you have a hot motor, leaking coolant, and limited time to fix it while your precious track day is winding away. I am after reliability, simplicity, and cost savings in both time and money.

OK that makes sense now.

g6civcx · 01-31-2006, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by killjoy

I just ordered one from sr20store for 75 shipped.

Thanks for the tip. I just ordered it from B&E Customs so I'm hoping it'll be here soon. If they don't come through, I'm definitely going to keep trying.

nsn240 · 01-31-2006, 03:03 PM

if you can use the s14 sr neck for a return line, where can you tap for a feed? (rwd sr20de doesnt have the feed tapped into the block) closer to the turbo would be better

g6civcx · 01-31-2006, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nsn240

if you can use the s14 sr neck for a return line, where can you tap for a feed? (sr20de doesnt have the feed tapped into the block) closer to the turbo would be better

Are you using a RWD SR or a FWD SR and flipping it around for RWD? You may want to check with the folks over on sr20forum.com. They turbo the DE all the time.

Z3NK1 · 01-31-2006, 11:02 PM

I hooked up the braided line to the back of the redtop tonight, and surprisingly it wasn't as difficult as I thought. I had to remove the brake booster hose, heater hoses, coil packs and a few misc brackets and from there it was pretty easy.

Also if you remove your turbo a lot, just disconnect it at the turbo and leave the line on the motor. I was easily able to attach it to the turbo after the line install by tilting the whole manifold/turbo assembly upwards. Of course your DP and elbow must be off.

g6civcx · 01-31-2006, 11:10 PM

You can get to it from the left side by tucking under all that wiring and hoses. It's hard to get at the factory hose clamps so replace them with better clamps.

It'll be hard to get the return line where it meets the turbo since it's on the other side of the turbo, wedged between the turbo and the block.

01-24-2006, 12:01 PM	#1
g6civcx Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 5,764 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	S13 SR Turbo Coolant Return (please read and comment) Problem: Okay, here's the problem. The stock S13 SR20DET turbo coolant return line is routed to the back of the motor at the factory. When the motor is already installed in the car, it is very difficult to get back there since there is very little clearance. Plus there will be additional chances of damaging the hose fittings back there, which would be very difficult to repair. This picture shows the return hose. Note where the braided line goes. It's very hard to get to that fitting without having to pull out a lot of wiring and hoses. I checked with a few sources on how to re-route that line, and I wasn't very happy with what I found. Solution 1: Install a new line and fittings/clamps when you prep the motor out of the car prior to installation. This is definitely the best way if you still have the motor out. Not good if it's already in. Solution 2: Install a water outlet from an S14 or newer SR20DET. Nissan addressed this problem in the newer generation motor by tapping the water outlet for the return line. You can see the new water outlet below, and the full write-up is here: http://www.sr20tuning.com/fittingaturbo.html This part is very hard to find. I already tried calling all the local shops. Then I started contacting major Nissan parts supplier, and nobody can get a hold of one. If you're lucky, you'll find a blown S14 motor and you can pick it off, but I wasn't so lucky. Solution 3: Fabricate a tap with the stock water outlet. This could work, but it's also very difficult to source a stock S13 water outlet so I could not risk the machine shop damaging the part. Solution 4: Blitz makes a silicone upper radiator hose for the SR. It comes with a bung meant for the water temperature probe. I imagine you could insert a hose fitting and tap it for the water return line. The cost is around $120 shipped. Solution 5: I got in touch with a vendor over on SR20Forum. He manufactures custom water outlet adapter plates (amongst other things) that has fittings for a coolant return line. He doesn't have any RWD application at the moment, but I've been corresponding with him to try to help him develop some adapters and bring them to market. Cost will be around $40. His site is under development: http://www.customsteel.com/sr20/ So right now I've put the words out on #3 so that's out of my hands. A couple of shops are looking for me but chances are slim. I'm going to look more into #4, and he's working on #5. If anybody has a good solution to this, please post up. Thanks for your time.

01-24-2006, 12:22 PM	#2
nissantuner22 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Gainesville, Fl Age: 39 Posts: 1,056 Trader Rating: (-1) Feedback Score: -1 reviews	Just to touch on solution 5, i toyed with that exact idea. The problem is, take a look at your water outlet neck. Theres not enough room for that spacer. If you look at it, you'll understand what I mean. The water neck is a good idea, I would go that way. Just tap the one you have now. Tapping is not hard at all, just take your time and make sure you use the right size. __________________ Current Project: Operation: N/A SR: 93 Silvia Q SR20DE Engine with go fast goodies. , "Common problems 240sx's suffer from are curbs, trees, ditches, and other immovable objects."thx247 "on the tounge... there is no guardrails."- citizen

01-24-2006, 12:46 PM	#8
Dousan_PG Post Whore! Join Date: May 2002 Location: Orange County, California Age: 45 Posts: 16,640 Trader Rating: (23) Rides Gallery: Dousan_PG Feedback Score: 23 reviews	dang i found one i 3 days did you CALL places around the country?? __________________ Aaron Pink GodziRa www.geocities.com/pink_godzira

01-24-2006, 12:56 PM	#10
Dousan_PG Post Whore! Join Date: May 2002 Location: Orange County, California Age: 45 Posts: 16,640 Trader Rating: (23) Rides Gallery: Dousan_PG Feedback Score: 23 reviews	call shops in CA sr20store.com phase2motortrend (email them) ooh my friends at Garage WOrks probably has one www.garageworksltd.com um..venus auto, who else...jspec..mmmm g-dimension.com etc etc etc heavy throttle? jarco? i called like 8 shops and i found one by 2 day and had it in hands on day 3. takes time and energy but it pays off. __________________ Aaron Pink GodziRa www.geocities.com/pink_godzira

01-24-2006, 01:32 PM	#12
1mns13 Leaky Injector Join Date: May 2004 Location: Freedomland Posts: 84 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Thanks for the info on the S14 coolant neck. That is the route I would take. __________________ www.the-nissan-240sx.com

01-24-2006, 12:24 PM	#3
Z3NK1 Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Calgary AB, Canada Posts: 30 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I just used a hack saw to cut the stock coolant return line further down where it starts heading towards the turbo, and stuck on the new braided line. All with the motor in the car....beacuse you're right, it's impossible to get at the back of the motor with all the wiring and brake lines in the way.

01-24-2006, 12:26 PM	#4
lok Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 815 Trader Rating: (10) Feedback Score: 10 reviews	I also noticed that the rear hose was really hard to install when the motor was already in and the fact that it is hard to run the line without damaging it or other stuff. I just kept the factory hard line since it is easy to bend out of the way and it only installs with a factory hose clamp. The s14 water neck would be the easiest fix if you could find one.

01-24-2006, 12:40 PM	#5
Dousan_PG Post Whore! Join Date: May 2002 Location: Orange County, California Age: 45 Posts: 16,640 Trader Rating: (23) Rides Gallery: Dousan_PG Feedback Score: 23 reviews	s14 water neck imo is the best route. __________________ Aaron Pink GodziRa www.geocities.com/pink_godzira

01-24-2006, 12:54 PM	#9
g6civcx Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 5,764 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	I worked my way around all the local shops. Then I started going down the list with places people here usually go to. Most places don't have it. Some places don't like to answer their phones and emails. Courtesy told me they don't have it. I have Performance Nissan looking for an OEM part from Japan for me. That would be ideal, but I think that's a long shot. I'll keep looking I guess. I was toying with #5 because he only wants $40 shipped for it, and it doesn't look too bad.

01-24-2006, 01:23 PM	#11
g6civcx Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 5,764 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	Thanks for the tip. I already contacted a few of the ones you posted there. I'm waiting on one place, and if they can't come through then I'm going to hit up everybody else left.

01-24-2006, 01:36 PM	#13
nissantuner22 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Gainesville, Fl Age: 39 Posts: 1,056 Trader Rating: (-1) Feedback Score: -1 reviews	hahaahah I'm a moron, my apologies. I commented about a FEED, not a return. I thought you were trying to get the feed to the turbo, in which case you would have needed to tap off where the thermostat is, on that housing. If that was the case, you couldn't fit the adapter in question there. But if your talking about the RETURN, that bracket your talking about should work if he makes you one. Of course, you can always just use the Throttle body coolant lines, like the FWD guys do. __________________ Current Project: Operation: N/A SR: 93 Silvia Q SR20DE Engine with go fast goodies. , "Common problems 240sx's suffer from are curbs, trees, ditches, and other immovable objects."thx247 "on the tounge... there is no guardrails."- citizen

01-24-2006, 01:37 PM	#14
lok Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 815 Trader Rating: (10) Feedback Score: 10 reviews	venus auto usually has parts like this. when my friend needed just the bell housing for his sr they were the only ones willing to part with just the bell housing.

01-24-2006, 02:25 PM	#15
Z3NK1 Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Calgary AB, Canada Posts: 30 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	[QUOTE=g6civcx] That's a good idea. The only problem is there is still a rubber hose back there to connect the two hard lines together. It would suck if you blow that hose on the track and the motor is smoking hot so you can't get back there to seal them up. QUOTE] Good point..... Back to the drawing board

01-24-2006, 02:57 PM	#16
g6civcx Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 5,764 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	I pulled off the hose that connects the metal coolant return line to the block. You can see it here. It's connected by little spring clips that were very difficult to get. It took a lot of patience to get out. I can't imagine doing this at the track when the motor is hot and you're short on time. The rubber has hardened, and the weave is starting to stray. It looks good on the outside, but the rubber coating is really just cosmetic. It's the weaving inside that gives the hose its strength and structural integrity. If you're curious where it mounts, look at the picture below. The red line is that rubber tube there. It mounts up to the block and connects to the blue line, which is the turbo coolant return line. If you get the Taka S13 T25 kit, it replaces both the rubber and metal lines.

01-24-2006, 07:55 PM	#17
g6civcx Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 5,764 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	Also, http://www.performancenissanparts.com/ can get it by special order from Japan for about $75 apiece.

01-25-2006, 11:49 AM	#18
SirWarrior Zilvia Addict Join Date: May 2004 Location: Chicagoland Posts: 762 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	even if you go with S14 waterneck deal, you still have to get to that hardline to plug it up. So why not just do the SS line?? __________________ 92 FastBack - Project 98 SE - Daily Driver

01-25-2006, 11:58 AM	#19
Dousan_PG Post Whore! Join Date: May 2002 Location: Orange County, California Age: 45 Posts: 16,640 Trader Rating: (23) Rides Gallery: Dousan_PG Feedback Score: 23 reviews	yeah s14 waterneck w/ ss line DONE takamotorsports.com __________________ Aaron Pink GodziRa www.geocities.com/pink_godzira

01-25-2006, 12:35 PM	#22
Dousan_PG Post Whore! Join Date: May 2002 Location: Orange County, California Age: 45 Posts: 16,640 Trader Rating: (23) Rides Gallery: Dousan_PG Feedback Score: 23 reviews	ill be up at GW working on my friends car alllllll day long. (rebuild w/ big turbo going in again) soill look for one if they have one ill buy it and sell it to you w/ shipping costs. kepe u updated and let u know friday. peace __________________ Aaron Pink GodziRa www.geocities.com/pink_godzira

01-31-2006, 12:34 PM	#24
killjoy Zilvia Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 215 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I just ordered one from sr20store for 75 shipped. __________________ stolen s13 new stock non-stolen s13

01-31-2006, 03:03 PM	#27
nsn240 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: pa Posts: 642 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	if you can use the s14 sr neck for a return line, where can you tap for a feed? (rwd sr20de doesnt have the feed tapped into the block) closer to the turbo would be better Last edited by nsn240; 01-31-2006 at 07:31 PM..

01-31-2006, 11:02 PM	#29
Z3NK1 Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Calgary AB, Canada Posts: 30 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I hooked up the braided line to the back of the redtop tonight, and surprisingly it wasn't as difficult as I thought. I had to remove the brake booster hose, heater hoses, coil packs and a few misc brackets and from there it was pretty easy. Also if you remove your turbo a lot, just disconnect it at the turbo and leave the line on the motor. I was easily able to attach it to the turbo after the line install by tilting the whole manifold/turbo assembly upwards. Of course your DP and elbow must be off.

01-31-2006, 11:10 PM	#30
g6civcx Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 5,764 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	You can get to it from the left side by tucking under all that wiring and hoses. It's hard to get at the factory hose clamps so replace them with better clamps. It'll be hard to get the return line where it meets the turbo since it's on the other side of the turbo, wedged between the turbo and the block.