Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum - View Single Post - My first car and i'm torn :-(

Ni5mo180SX · 12-08-2002, 04:52 PM

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (AceInHole @ Dec. 07 2002,12:10)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">why would the fc be harder to drift in?? a lighter car with more power is harder to drift in? the fact that it costs less makes it more "disposable" and drift cars are not supposed to be "disposable"? gyroscopic force from the high revving rotor prevents yaw rotation needed in drift?

get a mustang. they make better drift cars.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
The S5 T2 weighs in at 3000lbs, its heavier then an S14.

Engine fires? Commonly due to pulsation dampner failure. Replace that and you're ok.

The FCs engines are just like most other RE, if you take care of them, it wont fail you. The reason turbo rotary's developed a bad reputation is they dont take to detenation very well and one instance of detenation is enough to blow your motor.

The FC will be leaps ahead of the SR motor when it comes to hp:dollar ratio. The RE responds very well to mods and you'll be seeing huge increases in hp figures from exhaust mods and such.

Its hard to say which suits you though. If you're responsible enough to control yourself driving the T2 (as far as boost, order of mods etc) then get the T2. If you know it'll be difficult to practice restraint then stick with the 240 which is also a great car and will save you about $2000 if the FC engine blows.

12-08-2002, 04:52 PM	#14
Ni5mo180SX Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Orange County Posts: 423 Trader Rating: (0)	</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (AceInHole @ Dec. 07 2002,12:10)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">why would the fc be harder to drift in?? a lighter car with more power is harder to drift in? the fact that it costs less makes it more "disposable" and drift cars are not supposed to be "disposable"? gyroscopic force from the high revving rotor prevents yaw rotation needed in drift? get a mustang. they make better drift cars.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'> The S5 T2 weighs in at 3000lbs, its heavier then an S14. Engine fires? Commonly due to pulsation dampner failure. Replace that and you're ok. The FCs engines are just like most other RE, if you take care of them, it wont fail you. The reason turbo rotary's developed a bad reputation is they dont take to detenation very well and one instance of detenation is enough to blow your motor. The FC will be leaps ahead of the SR motor when it comes to hp:dollar ratio. The RE responds very well to mods and you'll be seeing huge increases in hp figures from exhaust mods and such. Its hard to say which suits you though. If you're responsible enough to control yourself driving the T2 (as far as boost, order of mods etc) then get the T2. If you know it'll be difficult to practice restraint then stick with the 240 which is also a great car and will save you about $2000 if the FC engine blows. __________________ Mazda RX-7 FC3S: Jspec motor, ported turbo & wastegate, JIC FLT-A2 coilovers, Mazdatrix adj. rear camber link, TB mod, Koyo 53mm Radiator, Corksport Cat back/midpipe/downipe, 3" Al TID, Apex'i air cleaner, Mazda Comp. mission/motor/differential mounts, Mazdaspeed Strut Bar(R), FD torsen differential, HKS SSQV, HKS elec. boost gauge & elec water temp, Cusco Oil catch, 680cc secondary's, Walbro 255, Banzai Racing FCD, RB DTSS Eliminator bushings, Exedy Clutch & PP, Exedy chrome moly flywheel, RB oil baffle, RB dual alt. pulley, 5 lug conversion, FC3S.org thermal bypass pellet, KVR Cross drilled rotors, complete Energy PU bushings, stainless steel brake lines/clutch line, Aerodyne shroud panel, Azenis RS, and some other stuff. A hybrid of sorts I guess