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Old 12-05-2008, 11:16 PM   #5
sac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan View Post
Since my Dad and I built a forced induction setup on his Z06 vette (with me doing the research/work and him swiping the credit card), I would say I'm "informed" on the topic.



Just because the APS units are not Garrett doesn't mean they don't compare. They're basically GT358xR, like S14DB posted.



The reason you don't see more F-bodies or Vettes with twins is because there's no room for them - the frame rails come right up to the headers. So yeah, turbos would be different.



This is an extremely important point - actually, they're good for something like 700 engine hp - less than 600whp for sure. The #7 piston ring lands are always the first to go when you push that number. LS2/LS7 can go a little higher due to higher displacement.



As above, if you're pushing the cylinder pressure/power limits of the engine, you're not too small. Big single would be big hp, but most likely not as fun to drive in any car, much less a 240. Even those twins don't spool up instantly (full boost around 2500rpm).
Well the ls1 that i already have i believe will give me all the response power i think i will want. I kinda want it to spool a little later, but dont want to run crazy boost. So i think i am going to just run a LARGE FMIC, and larger diam ic piping. I love the feel of a turbo when it hits boost. Just awesome. But i deffinately wanted (VERY BAD) the torque the LS1 can offer, that i wouldnt be able to get with a rb, sr, ka. Sure those can put more torque down than a stock ls1 with major coin invested, but if you invested that $ into the LS1 just the same they dont compare. That and the LS1 is really close to a wash of the weight of the ka that i pulled out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lr308 View Post
IF you really want to boost then go with/ LSX block with stand 2000hp,cast iron 6.o block with stand 1000hp, or 6.3/7.0 block with stand 1000hp! PSI ON a LS engine is going to be serious hp/TQ & $money$. Then you really have to look at your chassis and wounder if it going to put the power down. Best bet go with a BUILT RB26 For the S chassis if going over 700hp due too higher RPMS! 9000rpms rb26
wow..did i say i wanted a rb26? NO. i did not. therefore why bring it up? Do you expect me to be just like all the other swaps out there willing to just do what everyone else is?

Quote:
Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan View Post
Sigh, so much wrong with this post.

The cast iron blocks will withstand more boost than the LSx blocks, so everyone going for big power but still using a standard block would use those. I've never seen LSx blocks go above 1000hp.

Why would a build rb26 be any different? Because it doesn't produce as much torque down low? You do understand that it would be heavier, with half the displacement right? Ugh.

Anyway - whadda you think you're going to do Sac?
true. Sounds like your pretty knowledgable about this..
I think i am going to invest $ into a camshaft(not sure maybe you could give some insite), longtube headers (sikky manufacturing), and run a true dual exhaust from it. That along with a single piece aluminum driveline, and a reflash on the computer should be good to about 385rwhp. And just get used to the feel of the car. Then if i want more i can go to a large single. Cause unless i did a remote setup, i doubt a twin turbo setup would fit in the engine bay. Let alone clear the steering column.

BUT THAT HKSGT2835 WILL BE UP FOR SALE SHORTLY SO STAY GLUED TO THE CLASSIFIEDS GUYS
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