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Old 12-16-2008, 03:30 PM   #13
neuticle
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Age: 42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdterrible1 View Post
Cool thanks for the great help! I think it maybe the MAF sensor. I did cut the wire to extend it so maybe i goofed up? Shit i dont think you can cut those wires tho, cuz it has like an insulated metal wire running around the innser wires. Anyone know of this? Damn!
Also i am running a stock computer and it is the org. MAF, but the computer is not the one that came with the motor. Its one i bout on here cuz, i guess i fried the org. one. Thats at least what this dude i payed to wire my car did (which by the way he did a wack job)

Thanks again for the help

Yes. you can cut those wires. In fact you must if you're going to swap a RHD SR into a LHD S chassis. The insulation you cut through is shielding to reduce signal interference coming from the MAF. Time for some basic troubleshooting, but it sounds like you might be in a bit over your head if you're already not sure about the wiring.

Pull the codes off the ECU. Even though this guide is for KA, the checking procedure is the same, and I'm 99% sure the codes are the same.

KA24DEvelopment.com :: ECU Diagnostics

If your ECU is throwing any codes, begin troubleshooting there. If your getting code 55 (everything functional), it's time to begin digging deeper. Check for Vacuum leaks, or any vacuum lines that you may have forgotten to plug or install properly. Assuming no Vacuum leaks check your MAF wiring.

If i remember right... as labeled on the MAF Harness plug

B - White - 12v switched power
C - Black - Ground
D - B/W - Signal

At idle, with the car warmed up the signal voltage should bounce around between .8 and 1.5 volts. If your getting a constant 12v or ground at your signal wire, your wiring may be messed up.

After a few minutes with the s14 SR FSM, if your still not sure about your wiring you can verify that wires are hooked up correctly like this:

1. With the ignition on, and engine off, and MAF harness disconnected, you should get battery voltage at pin B of the MAF harness.

2. ignition off, disconnect the ECU harness connector. you should be seeing continuity between pin 26 on the ECU harness, and pin C on the MAF harness with your multimeter

3. ignition off and ECU harness still disconnected, you should be seeing continuity between pin 27 on the ECU harness, and pin D on the MAF harness.
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Good luck. I know it says I'm in Salt Lake, but I recently moved to SD. If you're confused about any of this and have the extra cash, it might be time to head to someone who knows what they're doing... unfortunately since I moved here a month ago I don't know anyone in the car scene at all yet. Wiring issues can be tricky. If you're getting funky ground problems make sure the 2 grounds at the firewall side of the top of intake manifold are clean and in good repair.

The ECU has a big 62 sticker on it, correct? And your not trying to use a Z32 5 pin MAF with this stock ECU, correct?
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