Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum - View Single Post

ashtonroche · 01-22-2012, 07:26 AM

Looks decent,

Some suggestions on the motor and i currently have and building up a fwd SR20VE-T using n1 cams as well. Thing about those cams is there is 74* of overlap. They are a very smooth cam and you can run them on stock vvl springs and retainers to 9k in the all motor world but i definitely suggest upgrade springs and retainers for turbo apps. Also leave the stock valvetrain in there. No need for upgraded valves. Unless you want to spend a crapload of time reshimming the valve lash. The vvl is not like the det's. They have solid rockers on a fixed shaft with hydraulic valve lash adjustment like the DET's have. So if you change valves and have valve angles done and so on your gonna run into having to reshim the valve lash and its a PITA if you dont know what your doing. So my suggestion is save the money, keep the stock valves and put in some supertech springs and retainers and be done. Make sure you put every shim back exactly where it came from as well when you dissasemble it. If its too late and they have been mixed up, your gonna have to check valve clearances when you put it back together and probably gonna have to reshim clearances anyways.

With that being said, You need to make sure you choose your turbine housing wisely, The n1's love a large turbine housing and since your using an open scroll manifold Id recommend you at least use the .82 t3 turbine housing, if your using a T4 open manifold id suggest the .81 T4. This will help keep backpressure down low with the high overlap cams. Ditch the cam gears and put stock gears on them and run them straight up. You dont need them.

Second thing, ditch the old style ARP headstuds and go with a set of Mazworx ARP2000 material headstuds. They are properly designed to bottom out in the block unlike the old normal ARP's that dont even use half the available threads in the block and dont bottom out like they should. People have been having problems with head lift with the old arps at as little as 400whp, pulling threads out of the block when trying to remove them because they pulled the threads during the head lift and much much more issues with them such as heavy block distortion because the studs put the load at the top portion of the block instead of the entire head bolt hole and threads.

The mazworx studs are slightly more expensive than the old arps at $200 for the set but well worth the cost, they are stronger and youll never have to worry about your head going anywhere especially with the Cosworth headgasket. Good choice btw, the Cosworth gasket is an amazing piece for the price and i used it on my last setup to 650whp and not a sign of head lift or gasket failure even when i had some heavy detonation due to a fuel regulator issues.

Other than that, the project looks good. Be sure to use SR20VE specific pistons in your build from CP, they have valve notches to allow great p2v clearance. If you used the normal det pistons especially with n1 cams, first time you hit vvl you can kiss your valves goodbye. You can get away with it with the stock ve cams but not on n1's. The Ve specific pistons are a tad more at 509 shipped on ebay but be sure to use them.

Ill keep a watch on the thread to see how its coming along. Looks like a fun build.

01-22-2012, 07:26 AM	#18
ashtonroche Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: yuma Age: 40 Posts: 397 Trader Rating: (0)	Looks decent, Some suggestions on the motor and i currently have and building up a fwd SR20VE-T using n1 cams as well. Thing about those cams is there is 74* of overlap. They are a very smooth cam and you can run them on stock vvl springs and retainers to 9k in the all motor world but i definitely suggest upgrade springs and retainers for turbo apps. Also leave the stock valvetrain in there. No need for upgraded valves. Unless you want to spend a crapload of time reshimming the valve lash. The vvl is not like the det's. They have solid rockers on a fixed shaft with hydraulic valve lash adjustment like the DET's have. So if you change valves and have valve angles done and so on your gonna run into having to reshim the valve lash and its a PITA if you dont know what your doing. So my suggestion is save the money, keep the stock valves and put in some supertech springs and retainers and be done. Make sure you put every shim back exactly where it came from as well when you dissasemble it. If its too late and they have been mixed up, your gonna have to check valve clearances when you put it back together and probably gonna have to reshim clearances anyways. With that being said, You need to make sure you choose your turbine housing wisely, The n1's love a large turbine housing and since your using an open scroll manifold Id recommend you at least use the .82 t3 turbine housing, if your using a T4 open manifold id suggest the .81 T4. This will help keep backpressure down low with the high overlap cams. Ditch the cam gears and put stock gears on them and run them straight up. You dont need them. Second thing, ditch the old style ARP headstuds and go with a set of Mazworx ARP2000 material headstuds. They are properly designed to bottom out in the block unlike the old normal ARP's that dont even use half the available threads in the block and dont bottom out like they should. People have been having problems with head lift with the old arps at as little as 400whp, pulling threads out of the block when trying to remove them because they pulled the threads during the head lift and much much more issues with them such as heavy block distortion because the studs put the load at the top portion of the block instead of the entire head bolt hole and threads. The mazworx studs are slightly more expensive than the old arps at $200 for the set but well worth the cost, they are stronger and youll never have to worry about your head going anywhere especially with the Cosworth headgasket. Good choice btw, the Cosworth gasket is an amazing piece for the price and i used it on my last setup to 650whp and not a sign of head lift or gasket failure even when i had some heavy detonation due to a fuel regulator issues. Other than that, the project looks good. Be sure to use SR20VE specific pistons in your build from CP, they have valve notches to allow great p2v clearance. If you used the normal det pistons especially with n1 cams, first time you hit vvl you can kiss your valves goodbye. You can get away with it with the stock ve cams but not on n1's. The Ve specific pistons are a tad more at 509 shipped on ebay but be sure to use them. Ill keep a watch on the thread to see how its coming along. Looks like a fun build.