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Originally Posted by nissantuner22
afte even more driving, there still there. its only on the back though. like the center hub on the fronts are kinda tarnished by this mystery crap too, but its not on the shiny rotor area.
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Dude that stuff is RUST!!!
Let's break the rotor down a bit.
The smaller portion of the rotors that has holes in it for your bolts to go through is the rotor's "head"
The larger portion of the rotor where the brake pad makes contact is the rotor's "face"
Also if you stand the rotor up like it would be on the car, and look straight down into it you'll see that there's a gap between the font "face" and the back "face"; that area is called "veins" for releasing trapped heat while driving (makes rotors more efficient).
Okay now that we got that out of the way:
the "head" will always rust and turn mustard looking on rotors, that's just life. Does absolutely nothing to affect the performance of your brakes.
Now it seems that you're saying the "face" of your rear rotor has rust covering 3/4 of the face portion, correct? Even after driving and braking as normal.
Here's a quick question that no one's asked you. Did you BLEED the brakes throughly? ALL 4 of them? It really sounds like that rear wheel is not even functioning due to the fact that there's rust on the face, If it was working then every time you hit the brakes the pads would clean the face of the rotor off and give you that "shiny" look.
So BLEED your brakes again, and make sure you keep fluid in the Resevior AT ALL TIMES! If you let it run out of fluid at all then you have to start all over! Go to Autozone or Kragen's and get a POWERBUILT one man bleeder kit. It has a nifty little container that has a magnet on the back which you just fasten to your rotor and put a pan underneath it to pick up the fluid as you bleed. BUT I would still have someone pump your pedal as you release the bleeder valve, much faster.
Whew! Hope this helps.