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Old 02-01-2013, 09:08 PM   #17
ashtonroche
Zilvia Junkie
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: yuma
Age: 40
Posts: 397
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ashtonroche is an unknown quantity at this point
ugh,

The ARP studs have a flat bottom with a ridge above the threads that bottoms on the top of the block. The stud does not go all the way into the bottom of the head bolt hole. It only actually grabs about half the threads.

Now for example, Mazworx for the SR's remade the ARP studs properly with a custom batch from ARP. The new studs are proper and made from their ARP2000 material so they are really strong. Even a well known company like Mazworx stated the old arp's are junk and improperly designed and cause issues. Now for Iron blocks like the KA they dont cause as much issues like they do in the SR aluminum blocks. The improper ARP's have been known to pull threads right out of the block during removal and also allowed head lift at even low power levels and they also have been measured and are known to distort the tops of the cylinders significantly vs oem bolts and proper studs that bottom out in the bottom of the block. Not the deck.

Now, by all means for you KA guys, the ARP's should be fine for what your doing as even the EVO guys have used them into the 800+whp range without issues. But that is primarily the iron block vs the aluminum.

Im just making suggestions here as there are better options. Not saying the ARP's wont work for what you want. Im just telling you what is proper and what is not.

Ive personally seen what the old ARP's do to aluminum threads on the SR blocks. Just sayin.

Search Mazworx headstud comparison and you will see the picture of the old ARP vs the New ARP2000 Mazworx studs. Youll see what im talking about.
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