Sorry guys, I have not been on here much lately. I'm not a vendor on here at the moment and I have really been trying to get Broadfield Customs to a level where it makes me enough income that I can quit my day job.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ixfxi
Its 2015 and I'd like a status update with my LFA v10 engine project please...!
1LR-GUE or bust!
|
Dude, I shipped that thing out Priority Mail like ages ago.
Quote:
Originally Posted by angel mkiv
Hey so about two years ago I purchased a viper remote start 2 way remote start kit from you worked perfectly always until this past year it sat while undergoing a full motor rebuild and engine bay shave/paint.now that I got it all hooked up and was ready to start it the starter would always have power at all times and wants to start..( the starter keeps clicking) and make sure by using a test light.no matter if the key is off and out of the ignition the starter still has power..I messed with it and pin pointed it to the alarm system..when I remove one of the alarm fuses, everything works like it should.also the alarm now doesn't work also...any suggestions on what's wrong? The remote doesn't communicate with the car also..
|
It's not uncommon that if you connect power to the battery, that a Viper remote start will try to start. As long as you have good battery voltage, have someone sit in the car with their foot on the brake when you reconnect the battery. This should keep the remote start from attempting to start. You said you tested it with a test light!?! What did you test exactly? What did it read?
Quote:
Originally Posted by seagrasser
|
I don't know how much bass you are looking for, but 8's won't do much. On top of that, free-air 8's will be way worse than 8's in an enclosure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hOngsterr
How do you remove dynamat?
|
Pull it off!
Quote:
Originally Posted by silnv
Still doing custom work? Have not seen you post in a long time. Possibly interested in having a Racepak IQ3 installed into a s14 cluster.
|
I'm doing more custom work than ever.... the very reason why haven't had time to post:
http://www.broadfieldcustoms.com/
https://www.facebook.com/BroadfieldCustoms
http://instagram.com/broadfieldcustoms
https://twitter.com/TobyBroadfield
https://broadfield.wordpress.com
Quote:
Originally Posted by nissanhatchie
Whats going on sir! First off, AMAZING machine and legendary work on it!
I was wondering if you would be willing to divulge a bit more information on how you did your rear quarter 25mm roll/pull? I am currently trying to make room for some new wheels on my 1992 Hatch that I have had for 6 years now. I am committed to keeping the quarters stock metal but need the extra room. I had rolled the quarters many years ago with my Eastwood roller and they are still clean/not dented etc. What I am wondering is how did you get the perfect arch/pull without getting all wavy? Did you have to cut or weld anything inside the wheel well? I have literally poured over every post you have made on your blog/nico/ and here trying do find out how you pulled it off lol. Any insight would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
|
Slightly wavy wheel arches will happen... so will the crease above the wheel arch. I had the proper body work done to make it perfect... then repainted the whole rear half of the car. You can kind of see here before I lowered the car back down, where the outer edge isn't a perfectly smooth radius. I also had the infamous crease that runs vertical above the arch. I'm sure most would of found it acceptable, but I'm too damn picky.
As you can see in the next image, I also had a slight crease/buckle in front of the wheel arch:
Also, that outer edge wasn't razor edge perfect when looking down the side:
This is after body work and paint... 285 tire on a 18x11 wheel.
