Master cylinder, if your car is not ABS then you'll need to plug the center hole with a pressed in fitting. Not hard, just get any nissan master cylinder of that year from a junk car and cut it out with a dremel tool. Thats a pain in the ass but not as hard as it sounds.
Taking the master cylinder off is 2 10 (or 12, its been a year)MM nuts and 3 10mm flange nuts(the ones holding the lines in) Take it easy when taking these off and its better to get brake line wrenches that are closed but have a cut out for the line to fit in so you grip the nut on 4 sides rather than 2. Prevents stripping.
The 300ZX one drops in, physically the same size and the lines even match up. S14's are a different story with the lines, but there is no need for you to worry about that.
Bolts for the Calipers, the stock 240SX bolts were too long and when I bottomed them out they hit the rotor. The 240SX caliper was bolted to a bracket that bolted to the actual spindle so I assume that to be the reasoning. Use the 300ZX bolts. Keep in mind I pulled all my parts from my 91 TT 300ZX before I sold it. My calipers are the 30mm so the bolt advice may vary, just put the rotor on first and the caliper with no pads and tighten the bolts down to see if the bolts hit the rotor after you tightened them.
As for lines, get the PDM racing steel conversion lines.
www.pdmracing.com
Straight forward bolt on.
A 19MM socket wrench and some elbow grease for the calipers thats all you need. That and wheels that clear.
There is entirely too much controversy surrounding this upgrade. It bolts on 100% with the only condition of wheels and lines. The master cylinder is optional but just gives you a much better pedal feel. You just quadrupled the braking power of that car, you're flowing much more fluid now so it's better to get a master cylinder with more front end emphasis.
Any questions PM me or email at
[email protected]
PS, if you wanna sell those 300ZX wheels I'll pick them up off you.