Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum - View Single Post - Clutch Interlock, Nuetral Switch, and Reverse Switch.

g6civcx · 08-20-2006, 01:46 PM

For those who don't have a strong command of the English language (nobody here of course, we all have perfect spelling and grammar):

interlock: noun - to connect so that the motion or operation of any part is constrained by another

starter clutch interlock = the motion or operation of the starter is constrained by the clutch, i.e. the starter will not engage UNLESS the clutch is disengaged by means of depressing the clutch pedal.

By bypassing the interlock circuitry as I showed you in the link, the interlock is removed. The ignition switch is connected directly to the starter solenoid. The interlock is not "ghetto rigged"; it's completely removed.

The reason I posted this is to describe what the industry standard is with regards to the definition of an "interlock". So if you did in fact removed your interlock, you can use the correct industry terminology to talk to your mechanic. Otherwise, if you tell your mechanic that you ghetto rigged an interlock when you actually removed it, you'll get charged for the time spent looking for something that's not there. The industry standard for lectrical work is roughly $60 per hour until the problem is found, with no recommended guideline on how many hours maximum to charge.

Anything else?

08-20-2006, 01:46 PM	#16
g6civcx Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 5,764 Trader Rating: (5)	For those who don't have a strong command of the English language (nobody here of course, we all have perfect spelling and grammar): interlock: noun - to connect so that the motion or operation of any part is constrained by another starter clutch interlock = the motion or operation of the starter is constrained by the clutch, i.e. the starter will not engage UNLESS the clutch is disengaged by means of depressing the clutch pedal. By bypassing the interlock circuitry as I showed you in the link, the interlock is removed. The ignition switch is connected directly to the starter solenoid. The interlock is not "ghetto rigged"; it's completely removed. The reason I posted this is to describe what the industry standard is with regards to the definition of an "interlock". So if you did in fact removed your interlock, you can use the correct industry terminology to talk to your mechanic. Otherwise, if you tell your mechanic that you ghetto rigged an interlock when you actually removed it, you'll get charged for the time spent looking for something that's not there. The industry standard for lectrical work is roughly $60 per hour until the problem is found, with no recommended guideline on how many hours maximum to charge. Anything else?