Good brake bleeding bit. Why that order? I always do it my chanels (RR & LF; LR & RF - furthest from master channel, then the closer one.
As for the brake job itself - easy as pie:
1) break lose lugs
2) jack up car (whole front if possible or do it one side at a time)
3) remove wheel
4) take a 12 mm wrench to the bolts on the back side of the caliper (NOT 17 mm) and losen
5) pull top of caliper up and off (it may be a little stuck depending)
6) pull old pads out of caliper top and hang top on the spring (you don't want to let it dangle by the brake lines)
7) take a 17 mm socket and losen the two bolts on the caliper assemply that is still on the disc and remove it and set it aside
8) take a small screw (find one that fits) and turn it into the holes on the brake rotor (inside where the studs are) - tighten it until the rotor comes lose (it will likely be rusted to the hub)
9) take rotors to local shop to be turned or trash them and clean them AND the caliper area before re-fitting
10) put rotors back over studs and in place (they just sorta rest there for now)
11) reattach caliper assembly w/ 17mm bolts - DON'T GROVE YOUR NEW ROTOR!
12) open brake fluid resevoir
13) take a 4" "C" clamp or specialty tool and compress the pistdon in the caliper that is hanging on the spring EVENLY!!!!
14) put new pads into little spring clip assembly dealies w/ the squeeler shims and all that
15) slide caliper assembly back over new pads/rotor (if it's too tight, compress piston more)
16) line up and reattach caliper w/ 12mm bolts
17) DOUBLE CHECK - IS IT ALL TIGHT? If you need to, bleed the brakes now or just put the cap back on the resevoir
18) put wheel back on - remember 80 lbs/ft!!
DONE - now go clean your nasty a$$ hands <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='
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