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If you plan on doing every seam on the car you have to be carefull because you basicly un-glueing the car!
Like I said... start with the Frame and Chassis... remove the seam sealer on those parts from both sides and then spot weld so its sound again.
You can remove the Insulation on the interior of the car before you get into the seam seals and you dont have to have the on blocks yet... Dry Ice is honestly the best way... Think you can get a 50lb. block for about $20... they should cut it into 5 sheets for you... store it in Igloo Cooler and wrap it in Brown paper bag.... should last about 2-3 days. This was honestly the most fun... the verticle sections were trouble some, but possable. Take a sheet of the DI and place it on the insulation (start with the floor)... cover the DI with a Brown Paper Bag over the top so the cold stays local and doesn't evaporate to fast... if it touches metal the DI will vibrate and sound like its humming. You will hear the Insulation cracking... after about 10min. in that one stop you can move the DI to a new spot and break away the insulation where the DI was. Hammer, 2" paint scraper, screwdriver... you dont need to beat the insulation as it should have completely seperated from the metal. when the DI gets thin and Fragile you can break it into small pieces about 1" and localize them in the curves... still cover with Brown paper bag and leave for about 10min.+
You can take the car to a frame shop and have them check for damage... other self checking methods are more complicated. You can basically have a perfect rectangle the same size as your lover frame between your wheels... use it like a template and check for deviations. Use those niftly little laser levels and shoot a laser down the chassis. Basically... if your not good at Geometry... take it to a shop that has a machine do it. However you will need to know how to level and sqare off when you go to level the chassis before welding.
Peace
Drew
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