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Ok I did everything without even doing that at all. It was a trick on freshalloy and it worked great....
Yes the correct FSM way is to crank the crank to tdc which is the second notch from the left on the crank pulley. Then you have to make sure the two dull silver links match with the mating marks on the cam gear while on TDC then put in the CAS lining up with the dark dot and after insertion to cam gear it should be turned very slightly to the gold mark.
Ok here is the trick to know if you are on or off timing, when you are at TDC, no matter what chain link is where, after inserting the CAS into the cam gear, you have to make sure the CAS is in the middle of the adjustment range of it or more counter clockwise position relative to the entire adjustment range of CAS, otherwise all the way counterclockwise = wrong or clockwise = wrong, do over.
You dropped your chain so you have roughly a 50/50 chance of getting it back on. So read carefully. I did this yesterday on a friend's car that his idiot brother dropped the chain.
First turn your crank pulley to tdc, which is second mark from the left on your crank pulley. Make sure it STAYs on TDC. Then, you crank your EXHAUST cam till the cam KEY is EXACTLY at 12 o'clock perpendicular to the head gasket. Exhaust Cam KEY is the thing that locks the Cam in place to the cam shaft so it doesn't spin around. Exactly 12 o'clock not 12:05 or 11:55, exactly 12 o'clock high noon. You should be able to draw a perpindicular line from the exhaust cam key to the head gasket.
Then you count 20 rollers to the left of the exhaust Cam gear MATING mark. Mating mark is the dot on the exhaust cam gear. so like this
0||||||||||||||||||||0 (Exactly twenty chain rollers/pins, no more no less, or it WILL not work.)
Then you put the intake cam mating mark on shown in the diagram above. So literally 20 rollers in BETWEEN the two mating marks. Note - you can only turn both the cams if they are not locked down by the cam retainers or the little bridge things. MAKE SURE TDC is there at all times or it will not work.
Next, tie down the Cams with the bridge things and then put in the CAS and then the tensioner. Now crank the crank 1 pull revolution forward then 1 full revolution back to TDC, to make sure the chain didn't jump. Count again the rollers to make sure there is exactly 20 rollers between the two mating marks on the Cam gears.
Put everything back and timing should be on. Remember to insert the CAS correctly while on TDC and remember the tip I said about how to tell if your timing is on at the beginning of this post. It will save you a lot of trouble in the end. Good luck.
It is roughly 50/50 because hopefully your chain did not drop 1/2 roller over otherwise things will be a little off. Secondly, make sure the mating marks and teeth are exactly in the middle of 1 chain link. like this below
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like this ----> (0 0) not like this ----- (0 0) (0 0)
^ ^
Good Luck Seriously. What a gamble lol, but you can get good removing CAMs on the up side. I can remove cover and cam with two people in 10 minutes now, Lol...
-Ken
P.S. We only did it this way because the engine was in the car and all peripheral pumps and stuff was installed already.
Please let me know if this works out for you.
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