View Single Post
Old 07-26-2007, 01:19 AM   #22
!Zar!
Post Whore!
 
!Zar!'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: North Korea
Posts: 14,579
Trader Rating: (27)
!Zar! is close to perfection!Zar! is close to perfection!Zar! is close to perfection!Zar! is close to perfection!Zar! is close to perfection!Zar! is close to perfection!Zar! is close to perfection!Zar! is close to perfection!Zar! is close to perfection!Zar! is close to perfection!Zar! is close to perfection
You really should've searched this... But I'll be nice...

Also your picture link doesn't work being as how I'm not a member which is gay.


-I plan on going KA-T, no SR20 for me. And no more than 8 PSI. I estimate that with good supporting mods I should come around 250 rwhp. Right?
-Also, how much does it cost to rebuild a KA?
-Can the KA reliably support 8 PSI with SR20 injectors?
-Does the 300ZX brake swap wothr it cost wise?
-Are the SR20 injectors same impedance as the KA Harness/ECU?
-What trouble spots for rust should I be looking for when buying an S13?
-I think all Canadian S13 came with an LSD…right?
-Am I better off buying it in the US?
-Can the KA tranny support 250rwhp?
-Anything else I should worry about?

1 - I have a ka-t myself. As well as a 13bt but that's another subject... Your estimate is pretty close.

2 - For the power you're looking to make you could run stock internals. So expect to spend something in the $700 price range.

3 - I'd suggest running injectors a little bigger than stock sr's.

4 - Just like how it's suggested to switch over from the single pot over to the four pot on FC's the same is suggested on the s-chassis.

5 - You can solder on resisters to change the impedance from high to low. I would suggest getting injectors off of a s4 or s5. Any injectors would work as long as it isn't off of a turbo or a GTU. But you will need a top feed fuel rail.

6 - #1 place you'll find rust is the rear trunk spoiler. Due to the fact that they are foam and water seeps under it fairly easily. Other places would be frame rails and that's about it. Depending on where you pick on up from it shouldn't be much of a problem.

7 - You don't want the diff out of any model even though your will most likely have VLSD . VLSD's fluid breaks down fairly quick and will start acting like an open. Unlike the clutch type that came in s4 tII's. I would suggest purchasing a two way or being cheap and welding an open diff.

8 - No point unless you find one for a good deal. Because you have to deal with customs iirc.

9 - The ka can handle that easily. But just like any car when you start upping the power, I suggest you purchase a clutch that can handle it.

10 - S-chassis' don't handle as nice as FC's =)

11 - A CA18det is the motor that was in the 240sx before the SR.

12 - A t28 should be fine for the hp you are looking for.

13 - Rtek doesn't make engine management for 240's. Too bad though. I'd like to run the 2.0...


Quote:
Originally Posted by joshuaput
why dont you just put a 13bt into it. cuz rotary guys get all bent outa shape when they dont have a rotary. and whine when people want to put piston engines into rx7s.

(i hope everyone can sense the sarcasm)
I have rotary and piston motors. Sounds like you were misinformed.
__________________
!Zar! is offline