[daryl337]

not to completely interject, but you both are sort of off topic here...

Headlights can run off of low amps <---- true

Bad battery = voltage + amperage drop due to inability to produce either with the electrolyte and lead plating combo <---- true

Dead battery = amperage drop because of whatever reason <---- true



I am certain that we can assume that his battery IS good however, or at least sufficient because he knows he isnt getting spark, which usually means that the motor is cranking over, fuel is going into the cylinders, but there is no ignition.


Now:

Spark plugs / wires determine spark strength... however if the wires are severed or so completely corroded that they have a rediculous amount of resistance, it might not jump the gap. 99.9% of the time you can rule this out though by simply testing it with another wire. If all 4 wires are crapped out, probability suggests that it is further up the line. So.. go to the dizzy. Take the cap and rotor off.. if things are making contact you should atleast have some spark... the quality of it is negotiable, but it should exist assuming your actual dizzy is not the problem.

You stated you changed it already before checking anything else out (bad move on your part...), so go to the coil: Check the resistance on the input and output of the coil (I believe.. I would have to refer back to the fsm to be sure.... =X)... and make sure they are within specs... you said you changed that anyways (doh)... so onward...

Check continuity through your harness to the coil..

Keep tracking it back. you will find your problem. Dont buy parts until you know what is wrong with it. You are just spending your money. with the 100+ dollars you used to buy used parts... or 300+ dollars you spent for new ones, you could have bought a $45 volt meter like the ones at harbor freight... or even a 9 dollar analogue (these are actually useful for testing o2 sensors) at any cheap parts store and gone through it yourself.