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Originally Posted by dwadia
LayNLow, thanks for all that info. I don't know how to quote quite as well as you so bear with me.
I really need to stay within $400 and that's pushing it. However my ball joints have play so i need new ones. I found a good deal on new oe-replacement control arms (with ball joints) for about $100 shipped, + $30 for poly bushings. That leaves me with ~270 to mess around with. Tein camber plates = $150. From what you said it sounds like i can avoid the RUCA's, assuming the eccentric bolts have enough adjustment range (i don't know how much i'll need to get the specs i want) and are precise enough. I'd need tension rods, let's say $130 for decent stuff (Circuit Sports or XMeganX i guess). That would be in the ballpark of my budget albeit on the high side. Now if the eccentric bolts on the front are really a good option i could save $100 right there, plus a slightly easier installation. Does anyone see a major downside going that route vs. the camber plates? Or any other flaws in my thinking?
And i'd still like to know how much these toe settings will affect tire wear (1/16-1/8")  . |
Ok, here we go again.
1) I Am not sure how much the stock eccentric bolts will adjust out. I assume you have gotten an alignment before? Before buying adjustable parts have your alignment guy check to see how close he can get it to your specs. As you may not have to buy a whole lot to get what you want.
2) IIRC stock castor spec is 6*.
3) Please don't use megan suspension parts. I have seen bad things from them on here and other places.
4) No eccentric bolts on the front. The only stock adjustable front componet is toe. And I am not sure you can get eccentric bolts for front camber.
No idea on how much toe will effect tire wear. I have a bit of toe out on my rear because I dont have my toe rods installed yet. But then again I cant say anything about wear because i cant keep tires on the rear long enough to notice. But I think 1/16 would be OK.
Like I said, if you could spare a little bit to get your alignment guy to see what he can get the rear camber and toe to, you may not have to buy much. I remember my rear toe being super close to 0, I am not sure what measurment it was in but IIRC it was at -0.1 per side using stock arms and being slammed as you can see down there \/ \/ But if your looking for -2.5* front camber, I would coulnt on buying some camber plates at the least. And your tension rods are 15-20 years old if they are still stock, so they are proably out of range. The only thing I am not sure about is rear camber since i installed my rear camber arms before I got an alignment. So I have no idea what they might be able to adjust out to.
The bolts can be pretty percise if you get a guy that wants to get it 100% right. And it is like a regular bolt, so its not usual for it to slip.