Quote:
Originally Posted by jamanrr
Dude. Do NOT get frustrated. Keep your head or your never gonna find it. I almost bought a brand new built bottom end (which I want to do anyway) before I noticed I blew a coupler off instead of the engine. I would look at fuel now if you have checked the grounds and ignition. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If it is like a fuel cut out then your pressure might be dropping some how. If you have opened your ECU up and looked at and saw no burnt electronic bits and everything is ok then you need to look at things it has to be instead of guessing at things you know it can not be. It will be the last thing that you check. good luck.
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I have never once just "stabbed at this problem BLINDLY"....
I have systematically checked out EVERY SINGLE part of the ignition diagram that I posted in this thread earlier. Checked continuity on all wires (CAS included), new ignitor, new coilpacks....
The only thing I still have to check would be to swap out the ignition coil relay for a different relay....I HIGHLY doubt that a relay can cause such heat and RPM-dependent problems however
Quote:
Originally Posted by xska
Bad CAS does weird stuff, mifire at high RPM, no start, runs but no power, bouncing tach.
power-fc is very liable unless engine harness is wired wrong or shorted.
And did you check power wire from alternator to fuse box?
Everybody talks about ground wires all the time, but bad power wire does same thing.
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Okay. Let me set this straight....I DO appreciate your help....
The car is wired PROPERLY....this has been a PEFECTLY-FUNCTIONING SR swap for 5 years.
The latest mechanical engine changes (head work and cams and stuff) ahs been working perfectly for 10 MONTHS.
This is not something like "wrong timing" or "bad tune".
With that in mind, I have an in cabin fuel-pressure gauge, so I can confirm that FP is where it's supposed to be.
The misfires are not "lean misfires", they are super-rich backfires that are occurring....fuel IS being delivered, but not ignited, as far as I can tell.