Quote:
Originally Posted by boniomario
Everyone is entitled to their own opinion of how they want to build their car ... Putting in valve springs and retainers with a good set of cams ensures that the valves close on the proximate timing because the OEM valve springs do not have the spring rate as the aftermarket springs do ... BC are not known for their quality but what OP is aiming for is 400 BHP benchmark and that is plenty for that
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I'm still going to respectfully disagree
Without a doubt putting in new stuff will not hurt anything on paper...I mean we are dealing with (essentially) junkyard engines once most of us get them. However in the same regard, just throwing any old parts at an engine is not to say that it will prevent harm/damage in actuality. Just installing big springs on an engine, that have not been RD'd, nor have any sort of meaning aside from a ton of seat pressure is just 'parts changing' if you ask me. Sure the bigger seat pressure will work (again on paper) but there is certainly a point where you can have too much, and to tight of a spring...that causes bad VooDoo in the valvetrain, and breaks stuff.
400 whp has been achieved on countless cars on stock valvetrains (minus cams) forever now...reliably at that. Gotta remember these engines are new to you and I, but were OEM 15-20 years ago to Japanese and European tuners...and lets also not forget how many Front wheel drive turbo owners existed before many of this forums current users even knew what a 240sx was.
Quote:
Originally Posted by boniomario
OP can go out and buy the tomei valve spring set and spend a lot more money but since BC has worked for myself and many others that I know who run the same setup as I do, it is only wise for me to post what I know and have seen
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Again I don't think you understand me when I say and know that there is a huge difference between 'works' and 'works properly/reliable/right'. When we're throwing nitrous at our dyno day cars and not blowing them up, you'll never here me say 'oh look anyone can do this now' as that can not be furhter from the truth.
To me, it's not worth the risk on skimping out at the last moment, or even spending money when you do not need too. Stock valvetrain failures? When...it's been a long time since seeing an SR20 have a spring break. BC stuff....well.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by boniomario
.. In my personal opinion I think JWT cams are junk and I think canned tunes are the worst thing a person can ever do to their car but I've never discredited you when you mention they're the best
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Ok, so you've made your point, now back them up.
1. How are the cams junk? Odd how JWT cams have time and time again made the best power, and broadest power band. How is it that JWT also designsmakes the cams for most of the Nissan Factory efforts? I mean...a company that actually designs something, and actually tests them...you're calling junk? I'd love to know how or why. Companies like JWT wouldn't exist for as long as they have, wouldn't be used across a variety of engines like they have, and wouldn't be referenced by Nissan race teams if they had junk cams...or parts.
2. Canned tunes. Enthalpy and JWT have been sending ROM tunes out for over a decade now both. Can you point me to instances where either of their tunes has specifically blown up a car? Maybe a few (they are not perfect) but that's over THOUSANDS of cars. Sure we can find many examples of a car 'not running right' with them, but 9.7/10 times those same cars that have 'bad tunes' often are plauged with other issues, that the tuned ECU only mulitplies.
As above, I'll never argue that a a rom tune from JWT or Enthalpy is better than a dyno/properly tuned car...a GOOD tuner with the RIGHT software and EXPERIENCE will always create a better experience/car. The thing is, just because someone CAN tune a car, does not mean they KNOW how to tune a car...and all it takes is this thread alone to show you countless 'tuned' cars that don't come
close to the results that my car, or others that have similar setups to mine.
My car is not magical, it's built with good stuff, and the right parts, and on IMO a tune that is super safe (I've got more
track miles then some have street miles) and it oddly has been one of the highest producing, most reliable, and referenced 2871r car for quite some time now...and there is a reason for that.
Is it 'beatable'? Sure...in fact there are guys who have made more power than I have. There are guys who have been around as long as I have too...so I'm not naive to the other methods. Thing is, all of the examples surpassing mine...(which I can count on half a hand) are COMPETENT tuners, who also have similar parts (or other awesome setups). Could I fine tune mine? Sure...I know things I'd like to change to really get the last 1/10th out of it all, but in the same regard, I'm not that interested. It's fun, it's fast, it doesn't have issues...why change it up?!
325-350whp on a typical street car setup is fine...and you can cut corners there...but if you want a true SR setup that makes 400whp, that is as reliable as it came from the dealer (well the engine, can drive to Montana, or drive at Limerock...then you need to spend money where it counts, and to spend it with a reason...not just parts changing and believing what the box says.
So in the end we may just need to agree to disagree. With that in mind, I'll gladly go out for beers with ya too anytime you're in the area. I do like Wild Ales though
