[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by dkim1985

hey broadfield.
i love your work and how all your interior parts are so clean~
is there a thread or do you have any kind of process to restore the plastic interior pieces?

for example, i have a s13 and the black plastic pieces are looking old and worn out and have been thinking about repainting them and what not but not sure where to start. any suggestions or recommendations for process and/or products?

If there are any scratches, cracks, gouges etc then you will want to repair those first. There are a couple different methods you can use. First, clean the entire piece by washing it with warm soapy water. Let dry and then wipe down with some form of 3M adhesive remover or Maxx Solv etc. For small nicks/gouges I like to fill them with superglue and use a spray accelerator to instantly activate it. This will fill the hole and is sandable instantly. You will want to sand it all the way smooth and finish with wet 400 or 600. You can then spray the piece with whatever color of SEM Color Coat paint you want. I prefer Satin Black and Landau Black.

If the piece you want to finish just has swirl marks on it then you can clean as above, then then scuff it with a grey scuff pad. Then simply paint it with the SEM paint.

Originally Posted by sickstatus

I'm on my iPhone, too lazy to quote n delete other posts,

I'll be using front n rear speakers with tweeters. my front pillars has stereo cover for them.

Do you want to amplify the front and rear speakers also? If so, ARC Audio makes a killer 5-channel amplifier. It would run you another $100.... so right under $600 for everything

Originally Posted by biggie

Sorry for being slow on reply, but yes they lock fine with the button. Just when you push the unlock button they unlock and then lock back.

Was just thinking there was some kind of check on a P/N switch and that would cause the issue. Though in the 5spd swap the main P/N switch under the hood is jumped.

I'm not really sure what could of gotten messed up by simply doing a trans swap. The alarm only taps into parking lights, door trigger, door lock wire, ignition, constant, starter wire interrupt and the siren under the hood... maybe trunk if that was hooked up. It just doesn't make sense assuming everything is wired just as it was before the swap. To me it sounds like something is wired incorrectly.... but that's hard for me to determine from across the country on a computer. If you have a test light or DMM I would be more than happy to walk you through it over the phone and help you test the wires to confirm proper operation of every wire.

Originally Posted by Nicelyphe

My car seems to not run as efficient when I'm playing music, the set-up includes the CarPC and Subs as we have previously spoke about. I'm running the stock SR alternator at the moment. [My second one..I think I fried the first one cause I heard a weird noise then my dash light went on and the car died once the battery died.]

Would upgrading to the 125AMP Quest alternator really help the situation in power draw and such? Would the 75AMP alt fuse have to be upgraded to properly run a higher amp alternator?

How much role does a battery play in this situation? I'm currently running the stock s13 battery branded by Exide. Would running anything like an Optima help in power performance? I don't have interest in running a capacitor.

Upgrading the alternator is the best thing you can do for higher current demands. The battery is for starting the car, so if it does that then it's doing its job. The only other thing a battery does is allow the use of accessories when the engine is off. Bigger batteries = more reserve time. Yes, you would want to upgrade the ALT fuse if you go to higher output alternator. Make sure your grounds are good on everything... the ground is the most important part of any circuit in the car.

Originally Posted by lewisfk

how much are u asking?

How much am I asking for what? You quoted everything?! And which calipers are you talking about?

Originally Posted by Seraphim38

First: Broadfield: massive props for supporting the community. I have 2 questions:

Is there not an aftermarket fiberglass subwoofer enclosure made for a standard spare tire well (that would fit in an S13 hatch)? I can't believe that someone other than JL doesn't make a decent fiberglass enclosure. I can pay someone to custom build one but it seems like a waste, since this is such a common thing to do.

Second: This is a dual purpose daily/track car that I have tried to shave weight as much as possible. I do want to have a stereo though. What is the best performing light weight subwoofer on the market, in, say a 12" size? It's probably going to be a neodymium driver. I am already using Class D amps to cut down on weight, and plan on using the Morel Maximo components up front.

Thanks!

Well that's the problem, there is no such thing as a standard well. Every car is different. Some are really shallow, some are deep, some have a large center area where the spare mounts etc. It would be like asking why someone doesn't make one hood that fits every car... it's just not possible.

I'm not aware of any quality subs that are light weight. But there are so many brands out there these days that there is no way I can keep track of all of them. If you buy like a JL Audio WX, W0 or W1, they are pretty light just for the fact that they are entry level subwoofers... or any brand of entry level sub. The enclosure itself will be FAR heavier than the sub... the weight of the sub is the least of your concerns. Just remove the enclosure on track days!?!