Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum - View Single Post

LuckyX2 · 02-25-2012, 06:52 PM

Most useful posts in the thread:
PART 2 OF THE INITIAL POST
NEW SHELL MEGA-UPDATE W/ ENGINE BUILD
VE FUEL MAPS TPS/MAP
TUNING A LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL
TWIN SCROLL EFR7163 ARRIVAL

Build Summary:

Drivetrain:
SR20DET redtop
GT2871r .64
10.5:1 ceramic coated JE pistons with moly skirts
Manley rods
Clevite rod and main bearings
Micropolished crank
Hand ported head
Jim Wolf S3 260 degree cams with JW cam gears
Solid lifters
Supertech dual springs
Supertech titanium retainers
Supertech valve guides and seals
Cometic MLS headgasket
Greddy RAS
Injector Dynamics ID1000's
Walbro E85 400LPH fuel pump
Tomei FPR
Greddy FMIC
Greddy Type RS BOV
LS2 truck ignition coils
3" exhaust
Lowered poly engine mounts
Act 6-puck sprung clutch
Nismo GT new style 20 clutch LSD
All tuned by myself on a Haltech Platinum Sport 1000

Suspension:
Ohlins PCV 450F/350R
Full Geomaster 2 setup
Adjustable RUCAs, RLCAs, FLCAs, tie rods, tension rods and toe rods
Aluminum steering bushing
Tanabe Sustec front sway bar
Removed rear sway bar (possibly Whiteline on the softest setting in the future or stock)
Defsport Wilwood 12.2" 4-piston front brake kit with E compound pads
Altima rear rotors and Hawk HPS+ pads
1" Z32 master cylinder
SS brake lines
SPL solid subframe bushings
5 lug Ichiba front hubs with OEM bearings
5 lug Z32 TT 31 spline rear hubs
Q45/R32/Z32 TT 6x1 bolt 31 spline rear axles
03 Mustang Cobra replica wheels 17x9 +25 all around
255/40/17 BFG Rivals

Other:
Cobra Suzuka
Suede Nardi Deep Corn
Nismo leather shift knob
Generic short shifter
Prosport Oil, boost, AFR gauges
LC-1 Wideband
Haltech electronic boost solenoid
JDM cluster with converted 180MPH speedo and 9k tach
Battery relocation w/ Deka lightweight Battery

Future Plans:
GTi-R ITBs (Bought, just waiting to install)
2nd gen mixed flow twin scroll EFR 7163 (ORDERED!)
VE head if I get a good deal and feel motivated
Z32 trans since I'll probably break my stock one at some point
Get it back on the dyno to tune it again once the engine is "finalized"
Redo my IC piping for a shorter path
Partial cage
275mm+ Hoosiers
Cosmetic stuff (Finish the Kouki conversion, paint, etc.)
Dominate the SCCA Street Mod class?

Hello everyone!
I thought I'd put together a build thread finally since I'm getting towards the end of college and starting to have enough money to fix it up right. Also, it will help keep me motivated to do good work knowing that the vigilant eyes of Zilvia are watching.

My goals for this car are to have a responsive 350-400whp, make it light and make it very well handling. Basically I would like an all around fun "driver's car" that will be at home on the track/strip but still see significant street time.

I've been around the 240 scene since summer 09 when I graduated high school and picked one up to go along side my DD, a Volvo S70

So here's the 240 coming off the tow truck

Here's the reason why I needed to tow it. It came like this...

A valve popped loose, and the previous owner got fed up mid repair so he sold it to me for $3500. What I got for that price was the car (obviously), an SR20DET with an S15 turbo, Koyorad radiator, Greddy FMIC, Greddy Type-RS BOV, Greddy turbo timer, an incomplete "Freddy" manifold full 3" exhaust, ACT 6 puck clutch, ISIS short shifter, Nismo slave cylinder, z32 VLSD with 4.6 final, Megan coilovers, Q45 Brakes, z32 maf, 550cc injectors, a "tuned" SAFC II and an extra set of cheap-o wheels that I sold for like $300. Pretty sweet for $3500...

The interior was nice and clean too

I tore out everything in the rear though, who needs that?

I decided I wanted more power than an sr could provide so I bought this baby and its 1.6L of Honda fury!

Actually... that was for my girlfriend's civic whose piston blew through the side of the block. So yeah, I just got to work putting the head back together with some new goodies. I figured while it was all apart I should port it a bit, solid lifters, Supertech dual springs/retainers, new guides, new seals, new valves, Greddy RAS, Tomei Poncams; ya know, do it right. Here are the cams, lifters and adjustable gears which I later exchanged for Jim Wolf gears which do not have sliders that can break free and ruin valves.

Here you can see how I ground down the slight lip under the valve seat which reduced the area of the opening for the valve.

Here you can see how I ground down the casting marks.

And here you can see how I just generally smoothed things out and brought the divider in the middle of each runner to more of a point.

Finally, it was time to assemble it all which was very tricky since I wasn't the one who took it apart. I could now do it blindfolded though, considering how many times I have had to take this thing apart...

All done!

I took it out for a quick drive with my dad but it turns out we forgot to tighten the three downpipe bolts and it worked it's way loose about a mile down the road next to a corn field.

Rather than accept fate and call a tow truck I got inventive and shoved a corn cob above my muffler. Pressing the muffler down brought the downpipe up because of the exhaust hanger in the middle. Think "see-saw"

And here's some rust in the footwell I found shortly after. I have a growing rust problem that I have yet to properly take care of but I'm about to buy an angle grinder and mig welder so it's all getting cut out, welded over and painted soon.

Next on my list was some under-dash wiring for some new gauges including oil pressure, boost, wideband and a failed attempt to install a little 52mm tach since the sohc tach in mine doesn't work with the SR. Also notice my new leather nismo shift knob to replace the pos Autozone one that came with the car and most importantly the Haltech Platinum Sport 1000 ECU that I would be tuning myself.

Got a new tubular manifold, Nismo FPR and z32 BMC too

I also decided now that I had the Haltech, that I'd run LS2 truck coils because they're awesome and I can

I tuned this all myself on a side street for a few days off and on and then on a dyno for an hour. AFR's were pretty much rock solid under boost and I managed 293whp/299tq on a hot (94F) day. Pretty good for an s15 turbo so I was proud of my tuning job. Plus I could tell my little bit of porting work helped too since my s15 turbo could barely flow enough to hold 14psi. My engine was really sucking in some air and the turbo couldn't keep up.

Well that's enough writing for now. The story of my numerous valve issues, suspension goodies and a gt2871/S3 cams/Freddy manifold upgrade are coming up next

02-25-2012, 06:52 PM	#1
LuckyX2 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Philadelphia Age: 33 Posts: 850 Trader Rating: (7)	LuckyX2's S13 SR Build Most useful posts in the thread: PART 2 OF THE INITIAL POST NEW SHELL MEGA-UPDATE W/ ENGINE BUILD VE FUEL MAPS TPS/MAP TUNING A LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL TWIN SCROLL EFR7163 ARRIVAL Build Summary: Drivetrain: SR20DET redtop GT2871r .64 10.5:1 ceramic coated JE pistons with moly skirts Manley rods Clevite rod and main bearings Micropolished crank Hand ported head Jim Wolf S3 260 degree cams with JW cam gears Solid lifters Supertech dual springs Supertech titanium retainers Supertech valve guides and seals Cometic MLS headgasket Greddy RAS Injector Dynamics ID1000's Walbro E85 400LPH fuel pump Tomei FPR Greddy FMIC Greddy Type RS BOV LS2 truck ignition coils 3" exhaust Lowered poly engine mounts Act 6-puck sprung clutch Nismo GT new style 20 clutch LSD All tuned by myself on a Haltech Platinum Sport 1000 Suspension: Ohlins PCV 450F/350R Full Geomaster 2 setup Adjustable RUCAs, RLCAs, FLCAs, tie rods, tension rods and toe rods Aluminum steering bushing Tanabe Sustec front sway bar Removed rear sway bar (possibly Whiteline on the softest setting in the future or stock) Defsport Wilwood 12.2" 4-piston front brake kit with E compound pads Altima rear rotors and Hawk HPS+ pads 1" Z32 master cylinder SS brake lines SPL solid subframe bushings 5 lug Ichiba front hubs with OEM bearings 5 lug Z32 TT 31 spline rear hubs Q45/R32/Z32 TT 6x1 bolt 31 spline rear axles 03 Mustang Cobra replica wheels 17x9 +25 all around 255/40/17 BFG Rivals Other: Cobra Suzuka Suede Nardi Deep Corn Nismo leather shift knob Generic short shifter Prosport Oil, boost, AFR gauges LC-1 Wideband Haltech electronic boost solenoid JDM cluster with converted 180MPH speedo and 9k tach Battery relocation w/ Deka lightweight Battery Future Plans: GTi-R ITBs (Bought, just waiting to install) 2nd gen mixed flow twin scroll EFR 7163 (ORDERED!) VE head if I get a good deal and feel motivated Z32 trans since I'll probably break my stock one at some point Get it back on the dyno to tune it again once the engine is "finalized" Redo my IC piping for a shorter path Partial cage 275mm+ Hoosiers Cosmetic stuff (Finish the Kouki conversion, paint, etc.) Dominate the SCCA Street Mod class? Hello everyone! I thought I'd put together a build thread finally since I'm getting towards the end of college and starting to have enough money to fix it up right. Also, it will help keep me motivated to do good work knowing that the vigilant eyes of Zilvia are watching. My goals for this car are to have a responsive 350-400whp, make it light and make it very well handling. Basically I would like an all around fun "driver's car" that will be at home on the track/strip but still see significant street time. I've been around the 240 scene since summer 09 when I graduated high school and picked one up to go along side my DD, a Volvo S70 So here's the 240 coming off the tow truck Here's the reason why I needed to tow it. It came like this... A valve popped loose, and the previous owner got fed up mid repair so he sold it to me for $3500. What I got for that price was the car (obviously), an SR20DET with an S15 turbo, Koyorad radiator, Greddy FMIC, Greddy Type-RS BOV, Greddy turbo timer, an incomplete "Freddy" manifold full 3" exhaust, ACT 6 puck clutch, ISIS short shifter, Nismo slave cylinder, z32 VLSD with 4.6 final, Megan coilovers, Q45 Brakes, z32 maf, 550cc injectors, a "tuned" SAFC II and an extra set of cheap-o wheels that I sold for like $300. Pretty sweet for $3500... The interior was nice and clean too I tore out everything in the rear though, who needs that? I decided I wanted more power than an sr could provide so I bought this baby and its 1.6L of Honda fury! Actually... that was for my girlfriend's civic whose piston blew through the side of the block. So yeah, I just got to work putting the head back together with some new goodies. I figured while it was all apart I should port it a bit, solid lifters, Supertech dual springs/retainers, new guides, new seals, new valves, Greddy RAS, Tomei Poncams; ya know, do it right. Here are the cams, lifters and adjustable gears which I later exchanged for Jim Wolf gears which do not have sliders that can break free and ruin valves. Here you can see how I ground down the slight lip under the valve seat which reduced the area of the opening for the valve. Here you can see how I ground down the casting marks. And here you can see how I just generally smoothed things out and brought the divider in the middle of each runner to more of a point. Finally, it was time to assemble it all which was very tricky since I wasn't the one who took it apart. I could now do it blindfolded though, considering how many times I have had to take this thing apart... All done! I took it out for a quick drive with my dad but it turns out we forgot to tighten the three downpipe bolts and it worked it's way loose about a mile down the road next to a corn field. Rather than accept fate and call a tow truck I got inventive and shoved a corn cob above my muffler. Pressing the muffler down brought the downpipe up because of the exhaust hanger in the middle. Think "see-saw" And here's some rust in the footwell I found shortly after. I have a growing rust problem that I have yet to properly take care of but I'm about to buy an angle grinder and mig welder so it's all getting cut out, welded over and painted soon. Next on my list was some under-dash wiring for some new gauges including oil pressure, boost, wideband and a failed attempt to install a little 52mm tach since the sohc tach in mine doesn't work with the SR. Also notice my new leather nismo shift knob to replace the pos Autozone one that came with the car and most importantly the Haltech Platinum Sport 1000 ECU that I would be tuning myself. Got a new tubular manifold, Nismo FPR and z32 BMC too I also decided now that I had the Haltech, that I'd run LS2 truck coils because they're awesome and I can I tuned this all myself on a side street for a few days off and on and then on a dyno for an hour. AFR's were pretty much rock solid under boost and I managed 293whp/299tq on a hot (94F) day. Pretty good for an s15 turbo so I was proud of my tuning job. Plus I could tell my little bit of porting work helped too since my s15 turbo could barely flow enough to hold 14psi. My engine was really sucking in some air and the turbo couldn't keep up. Well that's enough writing for now. The story of my numerous valve issues, suspension goodies and a gt2871/S3 cams/Freddy manifold upgrade are coming up next Last edited by LuckyX2; 08-01-2014 at 03:58 PM..