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titangts · 04-13-2012, 09:30 PM

I'll throw in my .2c...

what again is your Vac at during idle (ex. -21)...you said in the OP, 6.5??? if so thats DEFF your issue. which is a hardcore boost leak somewhere.

Also, your temp sensor has NOTHING to do with allowing your car to reach full operating temps. All the sensor does is tell the ecu whats going on/move the needle on the cluster. Your cooling system is 100% mechanical (beside and E-fan).. nothing electrical about it.

Boost leak test, boost leak test.

and 100% FOR SURE. if you are running a NISMO AFPR you should always, always always run a fuel gauge with it. the adjustable regulator is completely useless without a gauge. Just like people who install a SAFC without a wide band..

fuel test, boost leak test. next on the list.

04-13-2012, 09:30 PM	#8
titangts Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: charlotte Posts: 666 Trader Rating: (10)	I'll throw in my .2c... what again is your Vac at during idle (ex. -21)...you said in the OP, 6.5??? if so thats DEFF your issue. which is a hardcore boost leak somewhere. Also, your temp sensor has NOTHING to do with allowing your car to reach full operating temps. All the sensor does is tell the ecu whats going on/move the needle on the cluster. Your cooling system is 100% mechanical (beside and E-fan).. nothing electrical about it. Boost leak test, boost leak test. and 100% FOR SURE. if you are running a NISMO AFPR you should always, always always run a fuel gauge with it. the adjustable regulator is completely useless without a gauge. Just like people who install a SAFC without a wide band.. fuel test, boost leak test. next on the list.