Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum - View Single Post - The two-tone throw down. Going tubular.

SupaDoopa · 07-07-2013, 01:07 AM

Hey guys. I recently brought home a two-tone from my neighbor down the road. I've always loved the coupes more and the two-tone was my money shot. I've wanted one since I really got into S-chassis over five years ago. We worked out a deal and I ended up bringing it home. The night prior to bringing it home, we examined the car and got it ready for the move. Que the next day. Calling a tow truck for a tenth of a mile is retarded so we decided to throw a tow strap on my STI and pulled it. I removed the front end just in case. Took a tow strap and got her home. The only shitty part was getting over the hump in the driveway so we took the wheels off [that were flat] and threw some dollies under it. Took a little longer but within an hour, she was home on jack stands.

The night I grabbed it, I got a lead from a friend that someone local was selling this minty mint 50/50's for $20 a few blocks down so I went and snagged them. They look brand new. I was relieved because I HATE the OEM coupe tails.

The next day I started ripping off the rear end so I can remove the gross and most likely destroyed subframe bushings and throw in some SPL solid's. This was the aftermath after removing all the arms, diff, etc. I kept everything I pulled off together because I wasn't going to use it and it kept it easier to store away in the garage without losing nuts, bolts, arms, and all that jazz. So, I was left with a dirty but bare subframe.

At this point my main objective was the breakdown of the coupe so I can get it ready for the tubular front, cage, and trunk cage for the fuel cell and battery. So, I started with the interior because I knew I could knock it out fairly quick.

From there, the engine bay. Once I got the engine bay mostly taken care of, I was going to start working again slowly on the sound deadening. My drill kind of sucks as the battery likes to die quite often and I don't have a plug-in drill. Chiseling wasn't hard. The plan was to chisel the trunk space and then dry ice the rest. It'll keep the dry ice in a much more controller area for working so I started working away. Needless to say, it gets tiring fairly quick.

All the screws and nuts will be saved so I can get either replacements or clean them up. I hate seeing rusty ass shit after I'm done building a car so I threw them all in a baggy, labeled them, and kept on going. I'm not completely done with the chiseling but in another day or two, I should be good to go. As for the spare tire well, I kind of just let it be so I can have it professionally cut out and the fuel cell/battery cage throw in later on. As I got tired from chiseling [cannot wait for the dry ice to get back in stock local so that part can be done in an hour or so] I went to the engine bay to get it all stripped.

As of this moment, the sway bar, brake booster and master, lines, fuel filter, and fuel lines are out removed and I have an empty engine bay. I left the steering column in for now so when the car is loaded back up to take to the welders to get done, I can at least maneuver it around. Hopefully by then the rear end will be done and thrown back in and the front suspension will also be done but that's wishful thinking. I do have some suspension parts laying around but we're not at that point yet. This is a sneak peak of what's to come up front. A buddy at Drift Factory will be taking care of the welding so huge shout out to him. I'm stoked to see it done.

So tonight I decided to get off my ass and into the garage while it's 105 out at 8PM and start working on the subframe I've been super slacking on. So, I threw the bushings in the freezer and started burning out the metal center tubes and cutting out the old collars. This wasn't my first time doing it so it only took me about 45 minutes from start to finish to get it done. All I used was a blow torch for the rubber bushings to get the centers out, a sawzall to cut 2 lines in the collars [I cut two straight lines about a half inch apart from each other], hammered a flat head screw driver down the center of the two cuts, and once the tension was broken, the collars came out fairly easy. Some required a diagonal cut but that was no big deal.

From there I wire wheeled the whole subframe once over to both score it up for paint and loosen any dirt and grime so when I power wash and dry it off, it should be ready to paint right afterwards. I got most of it done and then the battery died on me again on the drill so tomorrow I will be finishing the wire wheeling, power washing it with soap, scrubbing it, and then power washing it once more before letting it sit to dry. From there I'll wipe it down and paint it and slap in the SPL's.

Here is a throw back picture of the subframe in my hatch. It'll be more or less the same thing. Same color, same bushings. I really did like the PBM arms I used on the last car so I'll be going full PBM PBM suspension [toe, traction, RUCA, RLCA, FLCA + tension combo, front knuckles, rear spindles, coils]. I'm going for some decent angle so that will also have me use pretty much the rest of what PBM offers [steering rack bushings, spacers, tie rods, etc.]. Not a fan boy but I love the quality and ability to functionally slam the car without worrying too much about anything failing.

So the plan tomorrow is get the subframe cleaned, painted, and the new bushings thrown in. I also sourced a SR20 local. I started tearing it apart with the intentions on building it for a decent amount of HP [hoping for 450-500ish reliably and correctly]. I've got some time to build it so I'm not too concerned. The original plan was 2JZ after I got a complete OEM block from a MKIV Supra from a good friend locally at TSI but this SR motorset was too cheap to pass up. The 2J will be built once the SR is done and most likely thrown in a different car. So, when I got it home I cracked the top to take a look inside. It has some flaws but nothing that wasn't going to be replaced anyways. It'll go to a machine shop once it's torn down and then the shopping will begin. The outside of the motor was filthy covered in sand but she'll be all cleaned up soon.

Also I got a few things on their way from Japan I'm pretty stoked about. I'm kinda relieved I can use some of this stuff because it's all for an SR as far as motor/tranny stuff. The stuff I have coming is:
-Tomei short shifter
-Tomei Poncams
-Tomei adjustable cam gears
-DMAX roof wing
-Yashio Factory e-brake knob
-Improve Craft CRUISE shift knob

I'm also contemplating AEROMARK's or Ganadors. My buddy said there is a decent amount of both floating around so I'm on the fence. Tomorrow when I take some more pictures of the progress, I'll put up the parts list of what I plan on buying/what I've bought.

Hope you guys enjoy. More to come.

07-07-2013, 01:07 AM	#1
SupaDoopa Post Whore! Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: 隠された意図 Age: 36 Posts: 3,689 Trader Rating: (26)	The two-tone throw down. Going tubular. Hey guys. I recently brought home a two-tone from my neighbor down the road. I've always loved the coupes more and the two-tone was my money shot. I've wanted one since I really got into S-chassis over five years ago. We worked out a deal and I ended up bringing it home. The night prior to bringing it home, we examined the car and got it ready for the move. Que the next day. Calling a tow truck for a tenth of a mile is retarded so we decided to throw a tow strap on my STI and pulled it. I removed the front end just in case. Took a tow strap and got her home. The only shitty part was getting over the hump in the driveway so we took the wheels off [that were flat] and threw some dollies under it. Took a little longer but within an hour, she was home on jack stands. The night I grabbed it, I got a lead from a friend that someone local was selling this minty mint 50/50's for $20 a few blocks down so I went and snagged them. They look brand new. I was relieved because I HATE the OEM coupe tails. The next day I started ripping off the rear end so I can remove the gross and most likely destroyed subframe bushings and throw in some SPL solid's. This was the aftermath after removing all the arms, diff, etc. I kept everything I pulled off together because I wasn't going to use it and it kept it easier to store away in the garage without losing nuts, bolts, arms, and all that jazz. So, I was left with a dirty but bare subframe. At this point my main objective was the breakdown of the coupe so I can get it ready for the tubular front, cage, and trunk cage for the fuel cell and battery. So, I started with the interior because I knew I could knock it out fairly quick. From there, the engine bay. Once I got the engine bay mostly taken care of, I was going to start working again slowly on the sound deadening. My drill kind of sucks as the battery likes to die quite often and I don't have a plug-in drill. Chiseling wasn't hard. The plan was to chisel the trunk space and then dry ice the rest. It'll keep the dry ice in a much more controller area for working so I started working away. Needless to say, it gets tiring fairly quick. All the screws and nuts will be saved so I can get either replacements or clean them up. I hate seeing rusty ass shit after I'm done building a car so I threw them all in a baggy, labeled them, and kept on going. I'm not completely done with the chiseling but in another day or two, I should be good to go. As for the spare tire well, I kind of just let it be so I can have it professionally cut out and the fuel cell/battery cage throw in later on. As I got tired from chiseling [cannot wait for the dry ice to get back in stock local so that part can be done in an hour or so] I went to the engine bay to get it all stripped. As of this moment, the sway bar, brake booster and master, lines, fuel filter, and fuel lines are out removed and I have an empty engine bay. I left the steering column in for now so when the car is loaded back up to take to the welders to get done, I can at least maneuver it around. Hopefully by then the rear end will be done and thrown back in and the front suspension will also be done but that's wishful thinking. I do have some suspension parts laying around but we're not at that point yet. This is a sneak peak of what's to come up front. A buddy at Drift Factory will be taking care of the welding so huge shout out to him. I'm stoked to see it done. So tonight I decided to get off my ass and into the garage while it's 105 out at 8PM and start working on the subframe I've been super slacking on. So, I threw the bushings in the freezer and started burning out the metal center tubes and cutting out the old collars. This wasn't my first time doing it so it only took me about 45 minutes from start to finish to get it done. All I used was a blow torch for the rubber bushings to get the centers out, a sawzall to cut 2 lines in the collars [I cut two straight lines about a half inch apart from each other], hammered a flat head screw driver down the center of the two cuts, and once the tension was broken, the collars came out fairly easy. Some required a diagonal cut but that was no big deal. From there I wire wheeled the whole subframe once over to both score it up for paint and loosen any dirt and grime so when I power wash and dry it off, it should be ready to paint right afterwards. I got most of it done and then the battery died on me again on the drill so tomorrow I will be finishing the wire wheeling, power washing it with soap, scrubbing it, and then power washing it once more before letting it sit to dry. From there I'll wipe it down and paint it and slap in the SPL's. Here is a throw back picture of the subframe in my hatch. It'll be more or less the same thing. Same color, same bushings. I really did like the PBM arms I used on the last car so I'll be going full PBM PBM suspension [toe, traction, RUCA, RLCA, FLCA + tension combo, front knuckles, rear spindles, coils]. I'm going for some decent angle so that will also have me use pretty much the rest of what PBM offers [steering rack bushings, spacers, tie rods, etc.]. Not a fan boy but I love the quality and ability to functionally slam the car without worrying too much about anything failing. So the plan tomorrow is get the subframe cleaned, painted, and the new bushings thrown in. I also sourced a SR20 local. I started tearing it apart with the intentions on building it for a decent amount of HP [hoping for 450-500ish reliably and correctly]. I've got some time to build it so I'm not too concerned. The original plan was 2JZ after I got a complete OEM block from a MKIV Supra from a good friend locally at TSI but this SR motorset was too cheap to pass up. The 2J will be built once the SR is done and most likely thrown in a different car. So, when I got it home I cracked the top to take a look inside. It has some flaws but nothing that wasn't going to be replaced anyways. It'll go to a machine shop once it's torn down and then the shopping will begin. The outside of the motor was filthy covered in sand but she'll be all cleaned up soon. Also I got a few things on their way from Japan I'm pretty stoked about. I'm kinda relieved I can use some of this stuff because it's all for an SR as far as motor/tranny stuff. The stuff I have coming is: -Tomei short shifter -Tomei Poncams -Tomei adjustable cam gears -DMAX roof wing -Yashio Factory e-brake knob -Improve Craft CRUISE shift knob I'm also contemplating AEROMARK's or Ganadors. My buddy said there is a decent amount of both floating around so I'm on the fence. Tomorrow when I take some more pictures of the progress, I'll put up the parts list of what I plan on buying/what I've bought. Hope you guys enjoy. More to come.