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For droplink length, you need the car corner weighted. There is a getto way to do that, by using 3 mechanical home scales, putting a big plank on top of them, then the 4 corners of the car, one by one. You need to disconnect ARBs first.
For the hole used... that is up to the drivers taste. Think of a roll bar as additional spring stiffness that only happens in corners. holes near the front make the bar stiffer.
Basically, on a FR setup, big rollbar front (lifts front interior wheel, allows to cut corners) and small rollbar rear (keeps both wheels on the ground, more traction if you have an LSD, just traction if you dont -OEM VLSD counts as no LSD, considering most of them are already dead). works quite well to grip.
It also depends on your tyres, alignment and shock/damper/coilover setup.
edit: until you get the car corner weighted, adjust droplink length so that the bar is not preloaded. This of course has to be done with the wheels on the ground, so use ramps. If you drive with a preloaded stiff bar, the car will be all over the place every time you hit a wave/hole/bump/corner/accelerate/brake. Which you dont want.
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