Quote:
Originally Posted by dev71893
You need to use the 1.3 bar cap. It comes with it for a reason. Let me elaborate. Forget the swirl pot lets just look at stock system. The pressurized cap needs to be at the highest point in the cooling system, otherwise air will not bleed out correctly. Now. Say you have a .9 bar cap on. That does not mean the WHOLE system will be at .9 bar. The farthest part of the cooling system will have least amount of pressure. So say at the cap it's .9 it could be .6 somewhere else in the block. Now let's add the swirl pot. Yes it constantly bleeds the system. However it's useless if it's not the highest point. So make sure it is. Second, your adding "distance" to the cooling system. So now instead of the farthest point being .6 it's not .4 (again I'm just throwing number). So they give you a higher pressure cap to compensate for it. Now that that's clear, if your running a .9 bar cap and are just driving normal I doubt itl really be an issue, however it WILL cause your coolant to boil when abusing it. As for your leak, fix it. Don't use rtv. Either weld or use jb weld if you have to or get another pot. If a metal tank that's supposed to be sealed cannot handle 1.3 bar thats an issue. I'd fix that ASAP
|
The pot isnt leaking. the pot is 100% fine. I was running the 1.3 cap on the swirl pot and there wasnt enough pressure in the system to po pthe cap open and coolant would leak out of the hose only when the motors running.
So youre saying put my non pressurized cap on my radiator (which it is now that I bought one) and run the 1.3kpg cap on my swirl pot, correct?