Quote:
Originally Posted by tacobellman_2007
Besides trying to get a replacement part and installing it, would JB Weld best the best way to fix this?
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S14DB's suggestion bay work, but I'd be looking at the junkyards for the new handle as it's only going to break again.
Quote:
Originally Posted by s14j
thats what i thought
but goddammit man its annoying sounds like a rusty door opening.
sigh..
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Now that sounds more like a heim link. As before, spray them one at a time with PBlater or WD40 and then you can see which one is the culprit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by acslater9
something crazy is happening. When I put my e brake down it still is locked up! I have no idea what to do! help thanks
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Is this from parking overnight or any time? Sometimes they'll stick on hingey calipers. You may need to give it a little extra gas to break them free.
If that doesn't work, see if the calipers compress back freely with the turn tool, and then check the cables to see if any are frozen/rusty/tore.
Quote:
Originally Posted by black'N'proud
Took my sr20 head to machine shop to have some work done to it. The hydraulic lifters sat in a bag for about a month. My question is, after bleeding the lifters should they be really stiff and not compress or should they have some play to them? I let all of the lifters sit in oil facing up for about 10 hours before I bled them. One of them I can compress with two fingers, the rest are solid and won't push down at all. Thanks for the help in advance.
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Here is an ok video on how to flush and bleed them:
The only thing is before you install them in your engine, refill another container with good oil, and just push the plunger down again until no air bubbles come out. As soon as you do that, drop it in the head. If at any time you turn the head upside down though (if it's on an engine stand or what not) you will need to rebleed them again.