[bmaddock]

\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\Appendix///////////////////

Motorset Mount Kit:
There are many aftermarket solutions available. General premise is the same for most swap mount kits. Remove Toyota factory mounts+brackets and install conversion brackets. Most kits should then use the KA/SR engine mounts and factory subframe. The transmission is even more straightforward, but be aware that some mounts only use one of the R154 transmission mounts. For the Xcessive kit, I ordered Part #2410 from Rockauto for $4 and filled it with window-weld instead of paying $120 for their poly mount. Buy two tubes of the 3M window weld and do your mount mounts while you're at it too. Make sure to degrease and clean them first!


Sway Bar Interference:
Stock sway bar will likely interfere with the JZ oil pan. Three basic solutions: sway bar spacers, Sikky sway bar, or removing front sway bar. Option 1 will cause the sway bar to scrape frequently. Option 2 is a great upgrade. Option 3 is half-ass, don’t do it. I measured before installing the Sikky sway bar and the distance between the stock sway bar and the radiator support is ~10". When upgrading it looked to be cut to ~8.5" if my memory is correct.

Heater Hoses:
The upper one crosses just behind the head. I routed that one on the bottom, then my harness, and they sit tucked between the coilpack cover and seem of the firewall nicely.


Radiator Hose Routing:
You can use your SR or KA upper radiator hose just fine. The lower hose you can use from a MKIV Supra. For an SR radiator, you will retain factory waterneck and just need to be able to reach the radiator port. I kept my KA radiator which requires a simple modification of the waterneck and cutting KA hose to length.

Transmission Choices:
I went for the factory extended shifter found on Soarer R154’s, but you can just as easily purchase a W58 (weaker trans) or normal R154 and have the shifter extended rearward to fit with our chassis. There are a few other options such as the Nissan Z33 transmission (CD009) or the all-powerful Getrag transmissions (V160), but both of these options typically cost a bit more. And regarding the shifter extension, you can purchase extended shifters from companies such as Freed Engineering.

The CD009 requires some further purchases. Make sure to check out Maverick Motorsports for bellhousing and adapter options. I've also read you need a 2JZ starter for this setup.

http://www.turbosupras.com/pages/pag...nical/R154.htm

UPDATE: I've since read further into the subject and found out about the Saturn Sky transmission (AR-5) and the Colorado transmission. Some further research is required but may be a cheaper/more viable option than R154.


Exhaust routing:
The JZ engines have the exhaust side facing the passenger side of the 240SX. To resolve this issue, most people seem to use the standard 1JZ downpipe and any 240SX catback. A midpipe is then fabricated to connect the two but requires dealing with the three bolt Toyota flange. The best bang for buck upgrade and way to deal with this is through Future Fabrication's turbo elbow. This replaces stock elbow and provides a dyno-proven 26whp/22ftlb bump on a completely stock setup. It's also comes with a vband to make fabbing the rest of the exhaust an easy task. I got this image off of their site and will verify soon with a follow-up video with Thatdudeinblue. The one on the left is Torque, both stock elbow and FF elbow (stock is lower line, FF is upper line) you can really see the gains everywhere here. The right graph is Horsepower, you can see the peak added and the same power extends longer.



Fuel Line Modification or Re-route:
A few choices here, similar to the exhaust routing we need to move the fuel lines to the other side of the car. Some go as far as running new lines down the right side of the car...but an easier solution is to extend the hardlines and go up and around the engine bay with the brake lines. To do so you can use an assortment of connections


Fuel Damper:
The stock JZ engines utilize a fuel damper to minimize pulses produced by the fuel pump and injectors while delivering variable amounts of fuel. How to deal with this part is a topic of hot debate on many Supra and Toyota forums and there seems to be a fairly even split on whether to keep it or not. The pros are obvious, it promotes steady and uniform fuel pressure at each injector and was clearly designed and implemented by Toyota for a reason. The cons are it’s another potential failure point and can be seen as a restriction to high-flowing, upgraded fuel systems.

There are a lot of rumors and hearsay surrounding the Fuel Damper I suggest you look further into if you’re interested...but I’ll just jump to what I chose to do, keep it. My fuel system is a 255LPH fuel pump, Z32 fuel filter, stock rail/injectors/ECU and an Aeromotive adjustable FPR. I ditched the banjo bolt fitting and ran RUS-640803 M12x1.25 fittings from the damper and fuel rail return to go to the feed line and FPR, respectively. It's your choice to use AN lines or barbed fuel injection grade rubber hose like I did.


MAF Differences:
JZX100 MAF: TOYOTA 22250-50060
JZX110 MAF: TOYOTA 22204-46020

JZZ30 MAF same as JZX100 ..?
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/perf...-vvti-maf.html


Bad ECU Capacitors
http://www.mk3supra.org/topic/9-guid...-on-a-1jz-ecu/


Drive-by-Wire Options
You don't need a special pedal for the X110 drive by wire in the late model 1JZ VVTI's. Instead a mechanical cable like the early models have is attached to the throttle body but instead of turning the throttle body plate when actuated, it instead spins a potentiometer that tells the ECU what the input was, the ECU then accommodates and sends a signal over to the DBW gears to actuates the plate.

So there is no fancy pedal involved, just electronics at work. There's a few options for remedying this.

1. Swap to earlier throttle body, harness, ECU and MAF (x110 uses a different MAF).

OR

2. Drive by Wire 'delete' kit by Premium Japan
http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/p.../item/kit-001/


Here's Toyota's ETCS-I explanation:




Gearing
240SX diff should be fine for most setups using an R154 but please refer to the link below to verify the gearing and play around with setups.

S13: 4.083 rear
R154+stock S13 diff Final Drive:


http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

Throttle Cable
1986 TOYOTA TERCEL 1.5L L4 throttle cable can be bought off RockAuto for $15 shipped. Supposedly it fits perfect but I managed to use the stock DE cable for now. I've wrapped it around and tucked it near the intake manifold. I then put it in what I believe to be the cruise control slot but it fully opens and closes the TB just fine.



Traction Control
ETCS or TRC. ETCS-i is drive by wire traction control.
Butterfly removal http://mkiv.com/techarticles/trac_butterfly/index.html

I found a good delete that doesn't require welding if you don't have the resources from Club Lexus:

Originally Posted by Club Lexus

fixed it by drilling my jb welded other side and this side with a 17/64 (or 9/16 if u cant find that) and tapping a 3/8" NPT and putting a plug on both sides. properly fixed for good now!

Idle Air Control Valve (IACV / ICV)
I chose to remove it and have a strong 750RPM idle that has never stalled. Simply remove the vacuum pipe and cover air port from the intake and iacv. I also unplugged the connection. Then bump your idle set screw to a desirable idle speed. I started off high (all the way in) and worked my way down. You can also create a block off plate and simplify your intake.



General Vacuum Line Advice
I've had a few PMs asking about what I deleted and kept. This is what I typically send:"all of the stock vacuum switching valves I've deleted including boost solenoid. I actually removed every line and only ran what was necessary:
Brake booster
boost gauge
FPR
BOV
Wastegate

I even removed the IACV and just bumped up my idle using the set screw on the throttle body bracket. Idles great at 800RPM and never stalls. I ran the stock bypass valve at first but ended up finding out that it was leaking (made the car feel really slow). I ran no bov for a few months but now have an HKS. It's nice but shoots huge flames. Can be cool but I'm careful when on public roads."


Electric Fan Clearance
TBD. Fan placement will be tight. Chase Bays offers a cool upgrade that places your radiator forward in the rad support...but most people like me want to avoid that. Whatever set up you may choose, make sure to have a shroud. Straight-six 240s will always run hot, most are able to fit pullers but there's a good chance you'll have to run pushers.

I am picking up Flex-a-Lite 420. It's shrouded, dual fan setup and have my engine pushed back as far as possible in the engine bay (thanks to the Xcessive mounts!).

How VVTI Works & Advantages:
http://www.kaizenmotorsports.com/blo...te-vvti-system


VVTI Issues/Symptoms:
I actually haven't had issues yet but here's a great tutorial I would advise doing while maintaining the engine before installation
http://www.2jzgarage.com/2013/08/cle...rol-valve-ocv/

And here's symptoms of bad VVTI solenoid:

Originally Posted by jzx100.com

I had a faulty vvti solidnoid- symptoms are as follows
When it's cold it runs fine.
Once it's warm it idles like a dog (sounds like it has big cams)
Loss of power when it's warm
Loss of brakes!! (at low rpm the pedal would begin to sink further and further) This was a bit scary.
Took the solidnoid out and wd40'd it and it happen a little less often but still happended.
Replaced it and the problem went away.

Also the VVTI cam gear seal can leak...there's a very specific way to take the cam gear apart but technically Toyota doesn't recommend it. This video below explains too well so watch that. Seal or new cam gear can be bought from Driftmotion.


VVTI OCV Notes
I replaced my oil control valve (OCV) aka solenoid as well but noted that they changed part number from Toyota 15330-46010 to Toyota 15330-46011. You'll notice the ends of them are slightly different but they will function identically (they removed the snap ring and made it integral to the casting). The new part model seals better as well.

Here's a nice diagram showing the system


Oil Pump Modifications:
From what I've gathered this is largely for high HP, high RPM builds. For a relatively stock setup as mine is, I just did some light porting to prevent any chance of cavitation and called it a day.

Originally Posted by Supra Forums, link below

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...mming-oil-pump
http://www.onecamonly.com/threads/mo...ance-use.1872/
http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...eprinting.aspx

Also note the differences in 1JZ and 2JZ oil pumps. If the links die, basically 2JZ pump >> 1JZ pump. Smoother radii and bigger volume.

Originally Posted by Albert

1JZ Pump:

2JZ Pump:

http://www.supramania.com/forums/sho...ump-comparison

Other Useful Information:
http://www.driftworks.com/blog/2011/...i-inspiration/
http://jp-carparts.com/lexus/figlist...1A0&cartype=13
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9ZV-6PdUvU
http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/articles/engine_1.htm


Non-Nissan Acronyms that confused me:
JZX100: Toyota Mark II, Chaser
JZZ30: Toyota Soarer (SC300)
JZX110: Toyota Crown, Verossa
TRC: old school Toyota traction control
ETCS: newer Toyota traction control
ETCS-I: drive-by-wire traction control
BPU: basic power upgrade (front mount, intake, 3” exhaust, boost controller)

\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\bmaddock's Full Parts List////////////////////

You do not need all of these parts but if you want to know exactly what I used and what parts I ordered...here ya go!

JZZ30 1JZ VVTI Wiring

I didn't wire the engine myself because finding the Soarer VVTI body harness pinouts was tough. JZZ30 and JZX100 ECU wiring is identical though. Further information will be posted here.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0By-...ew?usp=sharing


Things that get power:
Injectors
Igniter
Coils
Iacv
o2

1JZGTE VVTi Computer
Plugs C88 (34P) C84 (22P) C85 (16P) C86 (28P)

Plug C84 - 22pin

Throttle Position Sensor C50-4 VC C84 1 BL-Y
Blank C84 2
Clutch Speed Sensor NCO- C84 3 Gr
ECT Speed Sensor SP2- C84 4 R-Y
Engine Speed Sensor NE C84 5 Br
Sensor Common NE- C84 6 B-R
Throttle Position Sensor VTA C84 7 Y
Airflow Meter C98-2 VG C84 8 R-W
ECT Speed Sensor SP2+ C84 9 BL-Y
Cam Position Sensor G2 C84 10 BL
Cruise Control Computer IDL C84 11 Gr-Y
Throttle Position Sensor VTA2 C84 12 Y-R
Oxygen Sensor OX1 C84 13 W
Traction Control Computer VT02 C84 14 Br-W
Clutch Speed Sensor NCO+ C84 15 R
Igniter C104-5 IGT3 C84 16 BL-W
Igniter C104-6 IGT2 C84 17 R-B
ECT TDCL OIL C84 18 Y-Gr
Oxygen Sensor Heater HTR C84 19 R-BL
Water Temp Sensor THW C84 20 Gr
Airflow Meter C98-3 THA C84 21 Y-B
Throttle Sensor Common E2 C84 22 Br

Plug C85 - 16pin

Traction Control Computer NEO C85 1 P-BL
Main Relay via CA2-8 MREL C85 2 B-OR
TDCL via CI1-18 W C85 3 BL-Y
Fuel Pump Control Relay D1 C85 4 P
Diagnostic Connector TE1 C85 5 LGr
Blank 6
Traction Control Computer EFI+ C85 7 W
VSV Heat Pressure Valve FPU C85 8 BL
Traction Control Computer FAIL C85 9 W-Gr
Fuel Pump Control Relay TPC C85 10 R-W
Traction Control Computer EFI- C85 11 B
VSV Air Bubble EVAP C85 12 Gr-B
Blank 13
VSV (ABV) WGV C85 14 Gr-R
Blank 15
Blank C85 16 N/A

Plug C86 - 28 pin

TDCL via CI1-5 TT C86 1 Gr-R
Neutral Start Switch L C86 2 W
TO CI1-3 P C86 3 Gr-Or
Blank C86 4
A/C Magnetic Clutch ACMG C86 5 W
Meter Check Computer OD2 C86 6 G-R
Cruise Control Computer ECT C86 7 Br-Y
Cruise Control Computer A/D C86 8 Gr-Or
Ignition Switch Power IGSW C86 9 B-OR
Neutral Start Switch S C86 10 Gr
TDCL via CI1-2 TE2 C86 11 Gr-Y
Speed Signal from comb. meter SP1 C86 12 P
Diagnostic Connector + CI2-9 CCO C86 13 LGr-B
Power Supply from EFI Fuse BATT C86 14 B-Y
Blank 15
Blank 16
Traction Control Computer ABS C86 17 R
Traction Control Computer EFIF C86 18 G-BL
Blank C86 19
A/C Computer via CH1-5 A/C C86 20 BL-R
Blank C86 21
Switched power from Main Relay B+ C86 22 B-R
Switched power from Main Relay +B1 C86 23 B-R
Blank C86 24
From CF1-7 Stop Switch STP C86 25 Gr-W
Blank C86 26
A/C High Pressure Switch ELS3 C86 27 W-R
from Relay Block 4 via CF2-11 ELS C86 28 R-Y

Plug C88 - 34 pins

ECT TDCL SLT+ C88 1 W-Gr
No 4 ECT TDCL SLT- C88 2 Y
Traction Control Computer VT01 C88 3 Pu
No 3 ECT TDCL SLU+ C88 4 B
Injector #60 C88 5 R-W
Injector #50 C88 6 W-BL
Injector #40 C88 7 R-B
Injector #30 C88 8 B
Combination Meter ECW C88 8 W-R
Injector #20 C88 9 W
Injector #10 C88 10 Y
No 1 ECT TDCL S1 C88 11 LGr
Igniter C104-4 IGF C88 12 Gr-R
Starter (Manual) STA C88 13 B-W
Starter (Auto) NSW C88 14 B-W
VVT Solenoid C101-2 OCV- C88 15 P
VVT Solenoid C101-1 OCV+ C88 16 R
No 2 ECT TDCL S2 C88 17 R-W
Traction Control Computer ETC+ C88 18 OR
Diagnostic Connector VF C88 19 BL-B
Idle Speed Control ISC4 C88 20 BL-W
Idle Speed Control ISC3 C88 21 Gr-Y
Idle Speed Control ISC2 C88 22 Y-Gr
Idle Speed Control ISC1 C88 23 P
Igniter C104-7 IGT1 C88 24 BL-R
Traction Control Computer E1 C88 25 W-R
Airflow Meter EVG C88 26 BL-B
Traction Control Computer ETC- C88 27 W
ECT TDCL SLU+ C88 28 Gr-W
Knock Sensor KNK2 C88 29 W
Knock Sensor KNK1 C88 30 W
Traction Control Computer IDL2 C88 31 BL-Y
Throttle Position Sensor IDL C88 32 R
Earth CG E02 C88 33 W-B
Earth CG E01 C88 34 W-B

1 = charge warning lamp = yellow/gray
2 = switched live = black/yellow or just black
3 = voltage sense = white
More wiring threads that halped me:
http://jzxproject.com/bbs/index.php?showtopic=9960
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...gid=1826312247

Originally Posted by JZX100.com MAF AFM Wiring

1 - +B
2 - VG
3 - THA
4 - E2
5 - EVG

+B is ignition switched 12V
VG is the airflow signal
THA is intake air temp signal
E2 is signal ground
EVG I'm not 100% sure on, but I'd make an educated guess that it's a dedicated signal ground for the airflow signal wire.

\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\Problems & Troubleshooting///////////////////

Since I've created this thread, I've had multiple PMs through many outlets and helped a ton of people with small problems that I thought would be good to capture here.

Misfire in boost/lack of power
Anyone that's ever owned a 1JZ swapped car knows about misfires. A common problem for many turbo cars, the 1J and other imported motors are prone to issues because sit for long periods of time at importers, been mistreated while in Japan or PO, and have components that are ~20 years old. Search on google for full diagnosis but a few things to check out would be:
1. Boost/Vacuum leaks: Most of the time it is due to this. I had a leak where the 1J VVTI top feed injectors met the intake manifold. Very tricky to find without a boost leak test. See some of the subjects below as well.

2. Weak ignition: Very common for the coilpacks to have cracks in them that expand and contract from heat causing erratic misfire conditions that can be tough to find. Check the coil for any signs of a crack. A good test is to use liquid tape around them to see if it improves. This is not a permanent solution but can help if at the track. Also check the coil pack connectors are very brittle and need to be fully seated. Make sure the coilpack is grounded to the head with a hold down bolt and not stripped out or missing. Ensure none of the spark plug wires (VVTI only) are cracked or frayed. Also could be bad spark plugs, not a bad idea to change out such a cheap part. If you're having to close the gap anywhere tighter than 0.022" or so on stock/BPU power levels...you probably have other issues (stuck injector, bad FPR, worn coilpacks/igniter, etc)

3. Fuel Issues. Make sure your fuel pump is correctly running at 12V (look up 12V relay mod), injectors are good (resistance test), no fuel leaks, new fuel filter. I had a leaking injector that was easily tested for. Pull out all your spark plugs and key on the fuel pump to pressurize the system. I had fuel mist steaming out of cylinder 5's spark plug hole so knew immediately there was a leak. Unlike Nissan KA sidefeed, there is no oring that is likely pinched but rather the injector should be replaced. Try calling your local importer as these VVTI stock topfeed don't have a US-equivalent.

4. Bad ECU. Common in many 90's ECUs, capacitors are prone to oozing out onto the circuit and causing all sorts of erratic problems. Although forums make it seem like this is to be expected, from my experiences I haven't seen this to always be true. It's not hard to pop the cover off and look around for any obvious signs of failure. There are services that provide replacement/repair but it might be easier to track down a known good ECU and test that out before doing so.

Leaky/Broken IACV
When I first started my swap it sounded like it was idling at 3000rpm. I thought it might be a leak but never could get the IACV to do it's job because the valve itself was leaking. Instead of chasing down another known good IACV, i opted for something I did back on my KA-T, removing the IACV. To do so:
1. Unplug and remove valve
2. Loop coolant lines
3. Block spot on intake manifold
4. Block hole on Jpipe side
5. Block small vacuum line from IACV pipe
6. Locate throttle set screw and screw all the way in
7. Refine idle speed by slowly unscrewing the set screw

Leaky/Broken Bypass Valve
The stock bypass valve is a recirculated blow off valve that takes its cue from the boost solenoid next to it (blue plug).


Criticism, corrections, comments, etc welcome! Oh and the videos aren't super helpful in terms of explaining how to do it, just a nice visual representation of the experience.

Enjoy.