Quote:
Originally Posted by KoukiMonsta
On my current setup (and two previous ones) I have never seen the idle AFR's dead on consistent. AS in red light to red light they will change..sometimes simply spike to very rich or lean.
All of these builds were tuned by reputable tuner (that everyone on this board is familiar with). His input on this question, which was a concern of mine at one point, was that typically the wide band o2 sensors need more flow past them to see accurate readings.
Believe it or not, I am not trying to argue..I have seen plenty of your posts w/ good info. Hit me with some knowledge!
Another thought, since there is no load on the engine at idle being lean should not produce harmful effect, correct? Thinking about the AFR's some newer 'fuel efficient' vehicles see is part of what I am thinking.
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Idling and coming down to an idle should be consistent (repeatable), there are factor that change the AFR at idle. Temperature being one of them.
If your car doesn't perform a normal 1300/1500rpm 13.5afr cold start? I wouldn't consider that a problem unless it's 1500rpm 17afr then leans out to 20afr by 850rpm and 80°c. Maybe its on the richer side, 12.5afr cold, 11.5afr at temp. Worthless info? maybe?
The idle AFR will fluctuate, but it should have consistency to it, 14.2 14.5 15.2 15.0 14.7 being solid 14.7afr, would mean perfect condition for complete combustion is happening. So stop light to stop light and idling should be pretty consistent unless you give a Lil more throttle or happen to blow off this time or do a rolling burn out or ride longer in lower/higher gear whatever. But if you happen to idle for a while all should come back to normal being whatever idle AFR and rpm you have.
I never seen anyone blow and engine at idle, but I've seen damage from engines that idle too rich, (bad rings and cylinders)and too lean (pitting, failing ring lands) deterioration .
So I don't think they're idle air fuel ratios are worthless for a street car anyway.
Sent from a Highly Tuned Note 4.5!!!