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on a maf car you should not need a tuner using my map. The hardest part is just lining up the a/f values. Start by adjusting the global percentage to get your idle a solid 14.7 (WARMED UP ENGINE) or even slightly richer at 14.5, this is without headlights or A/C on. When you flip those on it will be richer, so leave them off for now. Then drive, it should be pretty close from there, if you see that is gets richer and richer as the RPM climbs you pull out injector latency. If it gets leaner and leaner as your rpms go up then you add injector latency.
At some point, the air fuel will pretty much be flat. It should be 15.0 or even 15.2 while cruising, and bounce around 14.7->15.2 like my excel file suggests. Be sure to read all the little hints. Turn OFF the O2 correction (narrowband O2 correction feature under ETC in the power FC needs to be OFF)
When you step down you want to see 11.5 or 11.0 at peak boost (9psi+) basically anything richer than 12:1 is fine. Its just a ballpark until you hit a real dyno with a real wideband sensor, then you can fine tune those areas yourself to make the wideband on the dyno read 12:1 up to 18psi of boost on 93. dyno wideband will always read slightly leaner than your in-car wideband if your in-car wideband is working right. Wideband in the car needs to be far from the turbo, at least 3 feet away, they hate to get HOT and if they get HOT they will read FALSE RICH. Your PFC knock count should not go much above 12 or 14. Sometimes 16 is fine. this mostly talks to you about timing, which my map is practically perfect, so there should be no problems there. Make sure you SET THE TIMING and CHECK THE TIMING with a real timing light. The CAS should be just about center (a little off center, slightly) when the engine is timed to 15* base setting. You cannot adjust the base timing on the PFC, it MUST be 15* there is no other option.
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