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drewusmaximus · 08-16-2016, 09:57 AM

I replaced my chain, tensioner, and guides a few months ago. I also did the screwdriver on cylinder one and made sure the hol eon the cam gear mated with the colored link, as well as the line on the crankshaft pulley was lined up. Before I pulled off the old chain, I rotated the engine about 17 times so that the hole on the cam gear mated with the colored link and the lines on the pulley matched. There are several lines on the crankshaft pulley that is used for timing but, mine matched with the last line on the pulley. On the distributor side, the rotor was pointing to cylinder 1, which basically is like a hand dial pointing between 3 and 4 on a clock. I also made sure I knew the exact position of the oil pump when I pulled it out so it can go back in the exact way so it would match and connect to the distributor. I made absolutely sure the crankshaft and the camshaft did not move a hair once TDC was in place.

Once I put everything back in place it started right up. Idle was at 750ish, no overheat, and no leaks. The reason why I replaced my tensioner and chain was, it had the rattle during startup and during all RPM ranges.

But, after replacing the chain, tensioner, and guides, I still have that damn rattle.
That's where I am stuck at right now. Not sure if it's a lifter or a valve.

In your case, it sounds like either the camshaft or crankshaft moved a few degrees before you put the new chain on or, the chain skipped a couple teeth. Hopefully none of the valves are bent from hitting the pistons.

The only thing I can think of is to pull number 1 spark plug, get the screwdriver, and set the engine to TDC. Check to see if the crankshaft pulley lines line up with the mark on the block. Then pull off VC and see where the hole on the cam gear is located. It should be like almost at 3 on a clock. Then pull off distributor cap and see where the rotor tip is facing. It should face between 3 and 4 on a clock. Closer to 4.

Have you tried rotating by hand to see if the hole on the cam gear mates with the colored link? It took me 17 rotations for the hole to mate with the color link and the lines on the crankshaft pulley matched and the rotor tip was facing almost at 4 every time.

Let us know your progress.. Hope all turns out well..

08-16-2016, 09:57 AM	#2
drewusmaximus Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: New York Posts: 37 Trader Rating: (0)	I replaced my chain, tensioner, and guides a few months ago. I also did the screwdriver on cylinder one and made sure the hol eon the cam gear mated with the colored link, as well as the line on the crankshaft pulley was lined up. Before I pulled off the old chain, I rotated the engine about 17 times so that the hole on the cam gear mated with the colored link and the lines on the pulley matched. There are several lines on the crankshaft pulley that is used for timing but, mine matched with the last line on the pulley. On the distributor side, the rotor was pointing to cylinder 1, which basically is like a hand dial pointing between 3 and 4 on a clock. I also made sure I knew the exact position of the oil pump when I pulled it out so it can go back in the exact way so it would match and connect to the distributor. I made absolutely sure the crankshaft and the camshaft did not move a hair once TDC was in place. Once I put everything back in place it started right up. Idle was at 750ish, no overheat, and no leaks. The reason why I replaced my tensioner and chain was, it had the rattle during startup and during all RPM ranges. But, after replacing the chain, tensioner, and guides, I still have that damn rattle. That's where I am stuck at right now. Not sure if it's a lifter or a valve. In your case, it sounds like either the camshaft or crankshaft moved a few degrees before you put the new chain on or, the chain skipped a couple teeth. Hopefully none of the valves are bent from hitting the pistons. The only thing I can think of is to pull number 1 spark plug, get the screwdriver, and set the engine to TDC. Check to see if the crankshaft pulley lines line up with the mark on the block. Then pull off VC and see where the hole on the cam gear is located. It should be like almost at 3 on a clock. Then pull off distributor cap and see where the rotor tip is facing. It should face between 3 and 4 on a clock. Closer to 4. Have you tried rotating by hand to see if the hole on the cam gear mates with the colored link? It took me 17 rotations for the hole to mate with the color link and the lines on the crankshaft pulley matched and the rotor tip was facing almost at 4 every time. Let us know your progress.. Hope all turns out well..