06-24-2019, 07:05 PM
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#22
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Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Japan
Posts: 318
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Not much has happened since I got the 33. Its a nice enough car, has some rust on it, so that needs to be redone, but the rest of the car is really nice. Some differences between the early models and the series 3 cars are the headlights, lip, red stitching in the interior, and some other bits and pieces. Its in the common places for the 33 and 34s, the strut tops are rusted out, and the side sills where the jack points are the worse of it. Nothing that can't be fixed, but it will take some time and money.




Washed it all down. The previous owner was a friend of mine, but he was in no way a car guy. At least hes honest to what was done to the car.... and he told me the fluids were never changed other than engine oil for the period he owned the car...
So this is kind of my go to recipe for fluids on a GTR:
10W-50 engine oil. Biggest reason I use this instead of the 10W-60 Nismo stuff, and thats cost. It costs me a third for the Castrol and is close enough to a 10w-60 without breaking the bank. Other honorable mentions are the HKS synthetic and anything that is ester base. If you can afford the nicer stuff, by all means get it, I still use the Nismo in the 34... but doing that for 3 cars gets pricey.
Redline Heavy Duty Shockproof for the transmission. For the 32 and 33 5 speeds, this is kind of the go to for worn out missions. I wont get too deep into it, but a very tried and true formula. Highly recommend for anyone with a higher mileage rb mission.
Nissan Matic D ATF for the transfer case. Dont use matic J or just regular dex III. Nissan sells this for pretty cheap and it is specified in the owners manual the use this fluid.
Pitwork Oil Filter. As always, the stock Nissan stuff is the best bang for your buck. At least here in Japan anyways.
Front and Rear Diff both Nissan LSD GL5 80W-90. The LSD additive is not necessary for the front dif, however, I wasn't going to buy another tin separately, it wont hurt, but it doesn't help either. Nissan was the cheapest, but there are nicer stuff out there.
If your ATTESA is low, use Nissan Power steering fluid. Not the Matic D.
After all the fluids were changed, car felt tonssss better. But was still doing some weird idling issues. I figured, have the MAFs rebuilt, because these are notorious for going out on all 32/33/34s. So that fixed the weird idling issues and now I have finally gotten to a point where I am happy driving the car back and forth to work.



Next thing I wanted to do was change the wheels. The ones that were on it were some knockoff staggered set. So on the way home driving, the HICAS light kept coming on. The ATTESA requires that the diameter be equal on all 4 corners, so a square set of wheels needed to be put on. This was a spare set I was going to use on the 34 for track days and such. I figured just throw them on the 33 and call it a day. 18 x 9.5 +12 with a 265 35 tire.


Going back the 34, after a good chunk of the maintenance was done on the car, I was finally confident in the car. Me and a couple of friends participated in the REVspeed party at Autopolis, it was super fun, even with the rain. The car ran really well, but I kept hitting speed cut on the long straight. I guess next upgrade... standalone???! maybe eventually.
I was also able to find a better condition zenki steering wheel. These are getting harder to find in good condition, so used is pretty much my only option. Maybe one day ill upgrade to a nice Personal wheel, but i really like the stock wheel.



Until next time guys!
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