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Old 04-01-2022, 09:55 PM   #4
kennn
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LtSlayer View Post
S13 Blacktop Sr20det in 1995 240sx, base I believe.
One easy way is by looking in the underhood fusebox at the main fuse. The base has a 75A fuse, and the SE has a 100A fuse.


This problem is sufficiently complicated such that troubleshooting over Internet is not possible.

You added too much complexity with the wideband on top of mixing blacktop S13 motor into USDM S14a body, and having a base "tune" thrown on top of an unverified swap.

All of the wiring for the dash is done at the big white F1->F4 plug in the passenger footwell, and I highly doubt all the wires were connected correctly, other than myself, Yuri, or a very few other who knows these cars well. On top of that, the USDM 95 S14 FSM is wrong! I hand verified every single wire on the car, and there are spots where the FSM was completely wrong, and Nissan never bothered to issue a TSB to update the FSM.

Word of caution: wiring the blacktop S13 SR is more complicated than the redtop, as the ECU has more complexity, and this swap is not well-documented on the Internet.

The proper way to do this is to source a JDM FSM for the kouki 180SX and translate the wiring diagram over. I have done this for the redtop SR, but I haven't found a blacktop FSM yet.

My advice? You should have verified that everything functioned correctly with the stock KA before attempting the swap. Then you can attempt the swap with a factory ECU. Make sure everything works as it should. There will be some functionalities that will never work because they are not supported by the JDM ECU. AC fan hi/lo is one that I know off the top of my head (S13 only has a single speed AC fan).

The VSS will also need to be swapped over to the KA for the speedo/odo to read correctly. Wiring at the battery box will also need to be verified so your backup lights, neutral/4th/5th gear switches, alternator/starter/oil pressure switch, etc. work correctly.

You need Datascan or Nistune to verify codes, set base idle/timing, and do numerous shakedown runs to verify the factory maps.

Only then should you attempt to slap on an Enthalpy base tune, and maybe then you can add the wideband.


I'm sorry if I'm being harsh, but if you took your car to HKS Japan they would have said the same thing. I've dealt with this stuff enough (let's say 100 swaps over the past 20 years would be a conservative estimate) to know when someone is in over their head.
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