Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n
Blah blah blah...
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You're missing the key factor here my guy. Engines don't need negative crankcase pressure through the crankcase at WOT. It is not necessary for engine longevity, it's just better for power and ring seal. Once you go back to cruising or idle, your PCV valve starts working again and pulls the contaminants out of the crankcase and into the intake manifold. On a racing vehicle this is different, but as you explained, most use vacuum pumps or are dry sump anyway.
Secondly, the whole point of aftermarket catch cans is to use a system that relieves crankcase pressure
without having to use a restrictive air filter. Why the fuck would you want to use a restrictive filter on your performance engine? The whole point of what we do is to allow the engine to breathe and make more power/be more efficient. If you have vacuum in your intake pipe at WOT, you're engine is not making the power it could. Some of this is necessary evil of course, because air filtration is important, but a large air filter with more surface area will alleviate most of this.
Lastly, it's pretty ironic that you go on and on about this, but don't even actually measure the pressure in real world figures in your video, it's just good enough for you that it moves down with the pipe attached and up with it disconnected. LOL.
EDIT: I read your post below, and it’s quite intriguing, but you never mention how to set the crankcase pressure other than air filter restriction. Is this your only tool? Or a pill in the air filter line? What is the method you use to set this, and do you actually measure the value, or just go off map voltage like in your video?