Quote:
Originally Posted by slider2828
I guess people aren't sure how to use it and how to simply construct a tool without drilling something..... Cool you used your boost controller to look at leakage and also remove the crank case breather to turbo, LOL. Wooops I didn't do this.....
Are you suppose to remove the PCV as well and cap it as well? My boost solenoid for my external waste also is completely open all the time too? That middle port....
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Boost leak test MUST be done on with all crank case/valve cover vents removed from the intake/turbo inlet. (DO NOT pressurize your crank case that will lead to many more issues. This is the same for all engines.)
- Example for SR/RB using a MAF: connect the boost leak tester pre MAF (this checks for post MAF/pre turbo leaks + boost leaks post turbo).
- Example for SR/RB using MAP (speed density): Connect the boost leak tester to the turbo inlet.
- System should hold boost with only a VERY slow leak of 1-2psi over 3-5 seconds.
As mentioned doing a proper boost leak test is 101 for any turbo engine and one of the most overlooked miss understood processes around.