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I doubt the T04E is going to have an internal wastegate, so you'll need an aftermarket one. As far as srpings go... it should come with the wastegate, and possibly have an adjustment screw. if your using a boost controller, the boost controller actuates a solenoid that replaces the spring.
Recirculating BOV's recirculate boost pressure back into the intake before the compressor. This way, the compressor which is still spinning will draw that recirculated air, and not through the MAF, causing the MAF to read airflow when the throttle plate is closed, therefore creating a really rich A/F mixture, possibly stalling the engine. Not all BOV's recirculate, so you might want to make sure the BOV you get is adaptable to be used as a recirculating BOV. If you're not running a ton of boost (say... 7 and under), a Bosch unit for like $35 should be fine.
For fuel control, you could get away with using a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. Otherwise you'll need an ECU reprogram or a piggyback module like the Apexi AFC (the JWT ECU is definitely more reliable and easier to use... plug and play) along with larger injectors and a new MAF. I'm toying with the idea of regulating fuel by fuel pressure, using the stock ECU and a larger MAF and proportionally larger injectors (in theory a setup like this could work well... although not for the faint of heart i guess).
the cluster water temp isn't too accurate, although it probably isn't too much of a necessity to have an aftermarket one anyways (IIRC, the stock temp sensor is only really good around operating temp, which is what you need anyways).
Oil feed comes from the oil pressure sender... you'll need to T off of it (it's to the right of the oil filter). You tap the oil pan for the oil drain line, but to do this properly you'll need to take the oil pan off, which also includes dropping the front cross member.
Intercooler/intake piping could be done at a muffler shop pretty easily. I'd wonder if PVC would work for low boost though.
The EGT is a better idea... you'll have a more accurate picture of if your engine is running lean/ rich, especially if you also have the A/F meter, and if you're in danger of blowing something.
Oil pressure is always a good idea.... in the event a seal blows on the turbine or a hose disconnects, your oil pressure will drop, and you'll be fucked if you don't know it.
Fuel pressure isn't a necessity, although if you run a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, it's a good idea.
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