Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum - View Single Post - Budget Z32 Front & Rear brake swap (also rear 5-lug how-to)

Ritz S14 · 10-15-2004, 09:04 PM

Ok I have the rear z32 brakes installed, and the ebrake should be fully functional tomorrow. Sorry I don't have any pics at the moment because I my sister has my card reader, and the camera link is at the shop. So I'm going to do a "write up" first, pictures later. Just want to hear your guys input.

Okay removing the rear brakes. Forget taking off the caliper to access the pads, just remove the two 17mm bolts holding the caliper assembly, and leave the caliper aside. Now that the caliper is off, you can remove the hub. YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE WHOLE KNUCKLE THAT IS WASTING AN INSANE AMOUNT OF TIME!! There are 4 19mm bolts which can be easily accessible with a short 19mm socket and a ratchet. Once it's loose, you can use a 6" extenion to remove them(but do not remove them at this time). Next you would need a socket large enough to remove the bolt that holding the output shaft (forgot what size sorry). Now that the output shaft bolt is out you will need a slide hammer mounted to the hub to detach the hub from the spindle. So the hub should be out, but the 4 bolts in the back is holding it in place, now is the time to remove it. Staring at you is the output shaft and the knuckle. If you were to remove the knuckle expect roughly adding an hour to your completion time.

Okay if you have the complete e-brake assembly(if you don't, skip this part), the little hole on top of the knuckle is dirty/rusted. Solution: Insert the ebrake assembly into the hole of the knuckle, and tap it in with a hammer. Problem solved. At this time if you have extended wheel studs, install them now. I'll do a write up of my NISMO 60mm wheel studs tomorrow when I get back to work if anyone is intersted. E-brake assembly mounted, make sure to install the bolt securing the e-brake. To make the ebrake work you will need at least a foot of z32 ebrake cable along with your stock ebrake cable to work.. You'll see what I mean when I post the pics. You can now mount the hub back on, securing the four rear 19mm bolts, and the center outputshaft(dont' forget washer!).

(No ebrake assembly start Here)Now put the z32 rotors on, and you're now probably 60% complete. Install the caliper with the 17mm bolts you removed from the stock calipers, and make sure the washers are on there. Install pads,shims/pins and remove the stock caliper lines 10mm flare nut wrench. Install z32 conversion lines, bleed brakes and you're ready to test drive. Brake pedal with the z32 fronts feel just like stock. Brake pedal feel with z32 f/r rear brake setup feels very low, but solid. Pics tomorrow. E-brake pics tomorrow.
ALWAYS ALWAYS DOUBLE CHECK THE TORQUE SPECS ON THE BOLTS YOU'VE REMOVED WHEN YOU REINSTALL THEM.

Thanks to TheSnail, this setup only set me back roughly $160. +/- Feedback is welcome.

10-15-2004, 09:04 PM	#6
Ritz S14 Post Whore! Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: C A L I F O R N I A Age: 43 Posts: 3,586 Trader Rating: (0)	Ok I have the rear z32 brakes installed, and the ebrake should be fully functional tomorrow. Sorry I don't have any pics at the moment because I my sister has my card reader, and the camera link is at the shop. So I'm going to do a "write up" first, pictures later. Just want to hear your guys input. Okay removing the rear brakes. Forget taking off the caliper to access the pads, just remove the two 17mm bolts holding the caliper assembly, and leave the caliper aside. Now that the caliper is off, you can remove the hub. YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE WHOLE KNUCKLE THAT IS WASTING AN INSANE AMOUNT OF TIME!! There are 4 19mm bolts which can be easily accessible with a short 19mm socket and a ratchet. Once it's loose, you can use a 6" extenion to remove them(but do not remove them at this time). Next you would need a socket large enough to remove the bolt that holding the output shaft (forgot what size sorry). Now that the output shaft bolt is out you will need a slide hammer mounted to the hub to detach the hub from the spindle. So the hub should be out, but the 4 bolts in the back is holding it in place, now is the time to remove it. Staring at you is the output shaft and the knuckle. If you were to remove the knuckle expect roughly adding an hour to your completion time. Okay if you have the complete e-brake assembly(if you don't, skip this part), the little hole on top of the knuckle is dirty/rusted. Solution: Insert the ebrake assembly into the hole of the knuckle, and tap it in with a hammer. Problem solved. At this time if you have extended wheel studs, install them now. I'll do a write up of my NISMO 60mm wheel studs tomorrow when I get back to work if anyone is intersted. E-brake assembly mounted, make sure to install the bolt securing the e-brake. To make the ebrake work you will need at least a foot of z32 ebrake cable along with your stock ebrake cable to work.. You'll see what I mean when I post the pics. You can now mount the hub back on, securing the four rear 19mm bolts, and the center outputshaft(dont' forget washer!). (No ebrake assembly start Here)Now put the z32 rotors on, and you're now probably 60% complete. Install the caliper with the 17mm bolts you removed from the stock calipers, and make sure the washers are on there. Install pads,shims/pins and remove the stock caliper lines 10mm flare nut wrench. Install z32 conversion lines, bleed brakes and you're ready to test drive. Brake pedal with the z32 fronts feel just like stock. Brake pedal feel with z32 f/r rear brake setup feels very low, but solid. Pics tomorrow. E-brake pics tomorrow. ALWAYS ALWAYS DOUBLE CHECK THE TORQUE SPECS ON THE BOLTS YOU'VE REMOVED WHEN YOU REINSTALL THEM. Thanks to TheSnail, this setup only set me back roughly $160. +/- Feedback is welcome.