RB sitting next to my car, 1/2 of Drift Freaq's install kit in the car, waiting on the new redesighned motor mounts.
ended up with a series 1 RB25DET with 30194 KM on it, witch = 18,761.68 miles
also ended up haveing dave source it for me through kouki_s14's (uncle?) importer. Pics to come soon
here is cliffs on water pump replacement/timing belt replacement
Ok since i am doing this already and haven't found allot of good write ups here it is as i do it. This is a Series 1 RB25DET. I did this cause my water pump was bent so here it is:
Remove water pump pulley:
remove the CAS too that is held on by the obvious 3 bolts too
Remove bolt that holds on main pulley (it's a 27):
Use pulley puller to take the pulley out:
Remove all small bolts the holes are circled in red (they are T5):
take off this little guard:
MARK the timing belt in all 3 places. mark the gears and the belt so you can line them up later I labeled mine Rt, LT, and B (for bottom):
Now remove the timing belt tensioners:
and the back of the other one:
now the 12 bolts that hold on the water pump (you can see them in the pics above)
and you should be left with something like this, if not cleaner hopefully:
Thermostat:
unbolt the Oil dip stick and bend down slightly, Bent the metal hose CAREFULLY that is by the bottom left screw, unbolt:
install: make sure the little jiggle valve on the thermostat is facing up, put a good bead of RTV on both the inside and the outside lip of the thermostat, place back in the hole and tighten down bolts (16-23 N/M). done and done.
OK well i kinda owned myself by forgetting the camera when i put this back on. and for torque specs and bolt order i used a RB25DET.org writeup here (i take no credit):
Water Pump Replacement
Removal
1. Remove radiator
2. Remove belts
3. Remove water pump pulley
4. Remove timing belt
5. remove tensioner pulley
6. remove idler pulley
7. remove alternator adjustment bar
8. Remove bolts in order shown
Installation
1. Apply sealant (Nissan RTV)
2. Tighten bolts in the order shown below
3. Tighten bolts 8and 9 together with the alternator bar
4. Tighten bolts to specs (FT/LBS)
M6 = 4.6-6.1
M8 = 11.8-15.5
M10 = 23.2-31.1
now to put it back on, i lined up all the marks on the belt and the gears so it was back in place. Next i installed the idler pulley and torqued to 43-58 (N-M) (the idler is the one on the rt if you are in front of the engine)
Then it was time for the tensioner. you need a hex wrentch to get this thing to go on.
so i made sure that the spring on the back was seated good in it's slot. then made sure that the nut on the end went
(nut)---->( shaped washer---->l shaped washer--->pulley---->bolt
then after i had all that in and i used the hex wrench to turn it so i had clearance to get the belt on. i ended up takeing the belt off the bottom pulley, looping it around the tensioners, then sliding it back onto the bottom gears and le tit go. Now i torqued that nut down to .43-58 (N-M) also. then it was a matter of putting on everything the same way it came off (block off plate, then front shielding, then bottom pulley, then upper plate and lastly the CAS and water pump pulley.)
I will let everyone know if this works once i start it up and see. i hope it does and will find out soon.
Runs fine it works, all is well good info.