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How did no one mention acetone and a rag, probably one of my favorite tools. Pick up a cheap spray bottle from Home Depot/Lowes/etc and fill it up.
As for other tools, beefy wire wheel on an angle grinder or the tattoo remover (I don't know the actual name, but its like a wire wheel except all the wires are a little thicker and stick straight out, it can remove everything). A torch is good to help break up the sealer in tight spots, then I use o-ring/dental picks to dig it out. A variety of scrapers and razor blades. Scotchbrite of varying roughness, scotchbrite disks on the 90* die grinder. And I'm sure there's some other things.
I pretty much clean it off and dig out as much as possible. Wipe it down with acetone and scotch brite to scrub off anything else and then wipe it down with acetone and a clean rag. And then the area is ready to weld. I usually get the metal shiny so I know its clean.
As for how to do the actual welds, I've seen so many different ways. I like the small beads, 3/4-1" long. Spread around the seams that are getting welded. Just make sure to move around a lot and not just do one place at a time. It was said before, but should be said again. Putting too much heat into the sheet metal could pull it and tweak the chassis.
And if you haven't done it yet, you'll soon realize that nissan sheetmetal sucks. It's not consistent and you may have trouble with blowing through. I stitched a car, granted it wasn't the cleanest chassis in terms of rust which I was also fixing, but I would use the same settings and I would weld a little, then come back to that same spot a little later and the next bead would blow through. I usually end up doing several tacks on top of each other instead of a continuous bead when it gets like this.
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