You're going to have a blast regardless. Ran RA in 15'. One rainy session and a couple of days worth of dry. Not a lot of help with the chassis here but best of luck. I'll see if I can't turn up some info for you. What room do you have left in the budget if you don't mind sharing. Are you pretty much tapped out already? I'm ignorant of class rules but what can you do with wheels/tires?
https://z31performance.com/forum/z31...or-road-racing
Slotting the strut towers for negative camber seems like a worthwhile mod.
http://xenonzcar.com/z31/issues.html
Found that as well. Hopefully someone with firsthand experience will chime in.
*edit* Ok so we're working with
These?
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Some Rules
4.1: Total Investment in Vehicle Can Not Exceed $500: Except for items described in Rules 4.2 and 4.3, the total spent to purchase and prepare any car may not exceed $500.
4.1.1: Lame-Ass Rationalizations: Cars that ?should be? worth $500 don?t count; cars that ?were worth $500? before you spent another $2000 to fix them don?t count; cars you?ve owned for 20 years and spent more than $500 on during that time don?t count; ?it would have been worth $500 if it didn?t already have a cage? doesn?t count. Five hundred dollars means five hundred frickin? dollars.
4.1.2: Lame-Ass Rationalizations About Parts: Same deal. ?Free? parts, parts given to you by your buddies, parts left lying around the shop?that crap doesn?t impress us. It?s worth whatever the last real guy paid in the last real purchase. Don?t think you?re clever.
4.2: Safety Equipment DOES NOT Count Toward $500 Total: Safety equipment described in Section 3 DOES NOT count toward the $500 total. ?Safety? refers to things that can save the driver?not things that can save the car.
4.2.1: Beside the items and processes listed in Section 3, the following are considered safety-related and therefore exempt:
Wheels, tires, wheel bearings, balljoints, and brake components
Exhaust systems downstream of the header/exhaust manifold (NOTE: Turbos and related components are NOT exempt from the $500 limit. Nice try.)
Windshields and wipers.
Driver comfort & information (steering wheel, shifter, gauges, pedals, cool suits, vents, heaters, radio)
All fuel hoses, fuel fittings, fuel filters, and related mounts
All fuel-system components upstream of the fuel pump, including tanks/cells, mounts, fillers, vents, etc. (NOTE: Fuel pumps, carburetors, injection pumps, computers, and individual injectors are NOT exempt from the $500 limit.)
4.3: Registration, Insurance, and License DO NOT Count Toward $500 Total: Registration, insurance, or license charges?assuming for some reason you bothered?DO NOT count toward the $500 total.
4.4: BS Factor: To prevent cheating, all cars will be inspected by a panel appointed by the Organizers. At that time, all teams will be given an opportunity to describe the car?s purchase and prep. If the panel believes the limit set out in Rule 4.1 has been exceeded, it will assign a Bullshit Factor (BSF) equal to one BSF per $10 above the limit. The entry will be docked one lap for each BSF assigned. (Ten dollars = one BSF = one lap.) Entrants are very, very, exceedingly strongly encouraged to bring pre-race-prep photographs, verifiable receipts, notarized testimonials, plus any and all other supporting evidence to Tech/BS Inspection. Or at least make up plausible-sounding stories in advance.
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Nice.
I'd recommend;
- New wheel bearings since 1), they're exempt from your $500 cap and 2) Guessing the car is in unknown condition. Reduction in rolling resistance as well as reducing hub temps around your brakes which are going to be getting warmed over already
Rock Auto has them CHEAP
- Slotting strut towers to gain some negative camber. It's free grip.
- Whatever you can do to take some slop out of the suspension and steering. Balljoints are exempt so sweet. If it were me I'd grab some liquid urethane
similar to this for $50 and pull the suspension components and make some new bushings. Could maybe get some motor and tranny mounts out of the deal too.
- Cut the dust shields off of the rear brakes. Either grab some cheap ducting and incorporate it into the shields on the front brakes or remove their dust shields too. New pads all around (exempt) and brake flush with ATE Typ 200 or above.
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clean/adjust MAF/AFM
- Verify timing/advance a few degrees perhaps? what fuel are you running. Engine is robust. should hold up if you're running above 87. if 87... not sure long-term.
- If there's money in the budget, generic cone filter on the intake maybe? something like this if you can swing it for a few bucks.
kidding on that last one.
Sweet! found a downloadable FSM for your car too. Could come in handy.
http://xenonzcar.com/z31/FSM/1984fsm.php