Started the subframe swap the other day, tare down went smoothly even though the subframe is the only part I've never removed from this car. But as soon as I got it out I found a few reasons why I was struggling for traction even on medium boost. I already knew my subframe bushings were going as it didn't take much to move the subframe with a pry bar even with energy suspension inserts, from 6 years ago, but once it was off, I could move each bushing with my finger. Too my surprise though the left rear traction rod had broke, only been on the car for maybe 8,000 miles, where it connects to the knuckle it split in two explaining why it would kinda snap out when first sliding, then snap back in on grip. Also why i couldn't see it or feel by hand.
When it came to assembly of the new subframe things got a bit tricky. First I had to set the length on the new GKTech LCAs and see what the minimum length was to keep the axles from bottoming out. Started with +5mm, and I couldn't even get the knuckle to look vertical. Next +10mm which I was getting mixed results on the ground till I put it on the car and realized both toe and camber were way out. After jacking the suspension to about where it normally sits and getting as close to 0 camber 0 toe as I could get in the air, the axle seemed a happy. When testing plunge through the range as the rim (17"s) approached the fender it gained a good bit of camber bottoming out the axle about 3/8" from tucking rim. I don't run super low just barely tucking the tread in the rear, this still gives me almost 2" of compression and about an inch of droop. I'm hoping it just needs more adjustment as I haven't been able to put it on the ground yet still waiting on a new set of traction rods, among other things
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Noticed after installing the diff the ABS sensor have to go in first.
Every heim joint got a very light coat of anti-seize on the threads to make future alignments easier.
+5mm knuckle refused to show any sign of 0 camber. Small tip, apply a tiny bit of anti-seize to axle spline to help check plunge, forgot to at this point so the axle wouldn't move
First set of eyeballing, doesn't really work off the car I was way off like -3 camber, and a degree or 2 of toe.
It was a PITA to get the subframe on as my jig didn't hold it the subframe perfect but the mounts were still close with the front mounts only being maybe 1/16" wider then factory. But here's the drivers side done, axle has about 5mm of free play till it gets close to tucking rim and the axle bottoms out from camber. A lot of guess work getting the traction rod, camber and tow lengths close from scratch, still cant properly set the traction rods till it's actually aligned, but no crazy bump steer watching travel.
Redilling the differential flange took a ton of patience to do right as my drill press is small and lacks vertical motion with big drill bits. Had to actually cut down the 3/8th drill I used to center drill each hole. Then took many steps to get to right size, with the final size being drilled from both sizes with a uni-bit as I couldn't find the right size bit.
