Quote:
Originally Posted by Om1kron
just a clarification
Y/B = Yellow wire / Black Stripe
Y/L = Yellow wire / Blue Stripe
the alternator has a small yellow wire that goes from the alternator to a 7.5 amp fuse in your engine bay fusebox and runs from there to a solid white wire tied up to your 100a fuse also in the engine bay in slot A. in the usdm fsm the yellow wire branches off and goes to the smj on the driver side
in the japanese fsm a W/R wire runs from the alternator to the super multiple junction on the driver side to your cluster.
there is no yellow/blue wire that goes to the charging system in this area.
The idle air control valve is only 2 wires, should be black for ground and B/Y (Black wire with a Yellow Stripe)
that wire should be running to fuse 32 in your engine bay fusebox and through your super multiple junction from the fusebox to your ecu female plug.
hopefully that information helps.
you can download the fsm with the sr20 notchtop in it here. : https://drive.google.com/file/d/11Vf...ew?usp=sharing
the page I'm referencing is EC-70 for the Idle Air control valve and EL-39 for the Charging System |
You're absolutely right with the mistake I made on labeling the wires. I should have said Y/L there. It hit me last night and I never corrected it.
Also thank you for the proper FSM. I've been scavenging little bits of other FSMs and I can't understand why they're so hard to find on a google search. Big help! That's the one I needed.
In line with this Y/L wire possibly having been from an auto-manual swap done on the car, I also noticed my original TPS had 2 plugs to connect into. My understanding is that the 2 plug TPS is specific to automatics. Everything I've found on searches regarding Y/L wires seem to apply to manual conversions so far. Chances are it is an unnecessary connection, though I do not like having this mysterious cut Y/L wire just kind of dangling around in the engine bay just behind the alternator.
In addition to the things I mentioned in the original post, I also timed the car to +15, and just completely disassembled the IACV to spray all parts down with carb cleaner and get as much excess carbon off as possible. TPS has also been adjusted as best I could for the .5 closed to 5 open. I had recently replaced intake manifold gaskets as well, but my understanding is that the idle would run high if a leak existed there.
The problem I'm having now is while the idle is improved, it is not consistent. When coming to a stop, I seem to have a 50/50 shot of the rpms dancing between 500-850, or 850-1k where its really happiest. Only seems to happen after I've driven it post-warm up to any extent. I have a P2M fan controller that sets the fans running at 185F, but it is also able to monitor voltage in the system.
I've noticed when the RPMS drop, so does the voltage. Generally I'm seeing between 12.0V-13.8V on the scale, then hitting 11v area when idle drops even lower. I do not know however, if the RPM drop is what's causing the voltage drop - or if it's the voltage drop causing the RPMs to go down. When I pulled into the driveway after a long cruise, the car idled down until it completely stalled out.
Adding to the mystery of all this, the car drives great in revs. No stutters or issues anytime I get going, and she pulls like the devil all the way to redline on these Tomei 258's and GT2871r. Just wish I could figure out this idle.
Edit: Adding one other thing of note. The cam gear I have in the car is from a redtop, so there is no longer VTC functionality. Could that be causing an issue for me where still having it plugged in could mess with the idle in any way? Would disconnecting the VTC plug cause any damage?