[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by Breitling

How big of slip on spacers can i run with 60 mm studs?


I am currently running 17mm.... but i fear i will rub if i lower it more....

EDIT - also, i am buying new coilovers soon, are there any reccomendations on which ones might give me more clearance than i have currently?

I'm running 2x10mm slip ons each side and my open end mutekis are on there minus maybe 2-3 threads not on the studs. Might be able to add another 3mm tops.

Originally Posted by grimm199

Ok guys, need some help here. I don't know shit about wheel fitment and all of that yet.....
But right now I am just sitting on S13 4 lug wheels, and KYB AGX struts with lowering springs if that matters at all.
Here are the specs of the wheels I am looking at right now:

Fronts:
17x9 with +35mm Offset

Rears:
17x10 with +20mm Offset

My question is, can that even fit? And if so, what would I need. Spacers, rolled, pulled, etc.?
If that wont fit at all, what is the largest width I could run?
Also another question, what would be a good tire size to stretch a little bit, but would still be able to be driven pretty hard as a daily?
And since I don't know shit on fitment, the S13 4 lug have an offset of +37 right? Not much of a difference from the fronts wih +35 offset so I wouldnt need to to much, or am I just not thinking right at all.

9j +35 probably wont fit up front. You'd need to kick the fronts down to +25 or so on 9js.

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Wheelrite - Wheel & Tire Simulator by Percy's High Performance, Percy's High Performance, PCY-01201 - Tuner Tools, the inside line $103.83 shipped. Nothing beats having the proper tool so you can get the most exact information you need.

Home | Wheel App Plus | Tire Size Calculator, Wheel Offset Comparison, Create Car Profiles in your Showroom - iPhone App.


With the tool, use the stock OEM wheel as the baseline. Then once you have the tool set up, simply measure your distance to, say, 1/2" from the spring/coil over/suspension that is the closest to interfering and you have your widest inner measurement. Invert it to go as far as you dare to the innermost fender lip(you are using this for a DD so no hellaflush or super wide track set ups).
With either 17" or 18"(18's are heavier, like wearing boots in wet sand) you can go 9" wide or 9j(this from the real experts here). On the tires, look hard at the Yokohama Advan S.4. Yes they cost a little more, BUT what they have that the other's don't is a rounder profile on the sidewall(this allows better clearance on the inner fender lip or suspension spring plates if your wheel and tre combo is UNDER clearancing the spring base plate. If you are worried about overall sprung/unsprung weight also consider the General AS-03 tire. It weighs about three pounds a tire less than the others that will fit(Federel, Yokohama, BFG, GY, Bridgestone/Firestone, Maxxis, etc). Remember, sprung weight of tire and wheel, if less, allow quicker acceleration and deceleration.
Hope this all helps.

I'm pretty jelly because I am still waiting for the damn insurance people to stop lowballing the value of my car and fix it. Top line, Kyushu manufactured cars(total production for '96 7333 cars, that is base model to top line sport tuned SE's) with vLSD, spoiler and side skirt gravel guard package, and sport tuned suspension cars are now, for '96 on the rarer side of the market and value has risen over the last 6 months for a good, crackless dash, above average car to around $6500. A base model '95 in above average is running $4500, and above average kouki's are going for $7000 to $8000 at dealerships/private parties across the country. Freakin market test shows an overall increase in selling price for these cool litttle rides to be about $1000 in the last couple months

Umm goodluck on that one. USAA quoted me $3300 for my 95 from the Black Book value of the car. I dont even get why the fuck I have full coverage insurance at this point. My damn Work Equips and Star Spec Tires cost more than the car.