kanyedian's Tiger Shark S13.4 Vert RHD 1JZ Build Thread
Wah gwan!
I bought this car in like 2018 when I came across it on Craigslist. I wasn?t ready to store or work on this thing at the time but I had the money so I decided to pick up a car with my (at the time) dream stats, i.e. RHD, RWD, Manual, Turbo, Vert.
I?ve finally made some progress on this build and I feel good about sharing everything.
First, some recent pix from this past weekend when I drove it to test the charging system after a new battery and alternator swap:
I use a Fuel Tech digital dash so don't mind the gauge cluster readings lmao.
I?ve always had this parasitic draw on my electrical system. I would walk past my car and notice the gauges climbing up and then falling back down?funny until you go to start the car and drive it and no dice.
The latest round of complete overhauling started when one day, the car stalled while backing into the garage and I could not restart it. Not even using a jump starter. I did weeks of research looking at faults of every kind. Taking logs on the Fuel Tech FT450 of my cranking the engine attempting to diagnose anything that could be the cause. I was reading Crank Position Sensor errors and Cam Angle Sensor errors. I took a look at the Cam Angle Sensors which were easy to access at the top of the engine and noticed how dirty they were:
I cleaned them with MAF spray cleaner and let them dry.
I noticed the rubber seals on the sensors were completely torn so I finally bit the bullet and ordered these new seals from Driftmotion. It took me a long time to decide to do because there was $13 shipping and they came in a large box instead of an envelope which would have been fine and that annoyed me. But hey, I finally got a new job and I?m earning some income and this is an important part so I did it. I promise I?m not salty or anything
big oof.
The funny thing is, I thought this would get my car to start but IT DID NOT! Believe it or not, I checked my Fuel Tech fuse box and there was one 15AMP fuse busted. I replaced it, and the car started normal. Hilarious, right? It?s always mixed emotions for me when a fix is easy because you sometimes feel silly but you?re also pleased it was a simple fix.
Later on, I noticed these broken wires on my alternator:
I ordered a replacement pigtail and crimped the wires to the correct lines:
I was still having issues charging the battery. For years now I?ve had to park the car, hook up a battery tender the entire time the car is sitting until I?m ready to drive again. Turns out this was the only way I was able to still use the car because the alternator failed a test at Autozone. My battery also failed the reserve capacity test a little over one year after it was purchased.
I was looking hardcore into AGM batteries like the Odyssey PC925L
https://www.odysseybatteries.com/odyssey/pc925.html
which was recommended by Driftmotion but I don?t have a banging stereo
or assisted steering, etc. so for now I stuck with a ~700 CCA Duralast from Sam?s Club with a three year warranty.
I was debating which alternator to get, be it a remanufactured from Driftmotion like
https://www.driftmotion.com/150AMP-1...r-p/dm1696.htm
https://www.driftmotion.com/100AMP-1...r-p/dm1623.htm or something new.
After reading a lot online
https://www.supraforums.com/threads/...-found.282167/
https://www.supraforums.com/threads/...wiring.656898/
I realized the 2JZ (like 1997 Supra) alternator would be a plug and play for my 1JZ which has the newer oval style plug. I selected the 1997 Toyota Supra Turbo Automatic alternator because it has 10 more Amps than the manual and it arrived with a slightly larger (underdriven) pulley. About 2.95? compared to ~2.5? on the one I was taking off. Autozone had a 20% off coupon if I bought online vs. in store so I took advantage of that and it was shipped and arrived the next day.
My engine bay is so so so tight with the straight 6 engine?I had to remove the electric fans first, and then drain and remove the radiator so I could get tools on the bolts and studs.
I took this time to replace the fluid with Toyota Red style coolant, also performed an oil change. This engine and oil pan takes 6 quarts of 10W-30. I used full synthetic plus a new oil filter.
I saw a video on YouTube about the dangers of an old harmonic balancer/crank pulley and how they carry a lot of energy when they fail and that will make you have to replace it anyway, PLUS repair any damage it causes. So I shopped around and I elected to purchase a Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer from the 1JZ/2JZ from Jegs.com who price-matched the lowest price I found online ($456.99) with free shipping. This completed a childhood dream of mine because I remember ordering the Jeg?s catalog as a youth and scrolling through all the pages of performance parts and crate motors haha.
I also ordered a 22mm weighted socket from Amazon that together with my aging air compressor and pneumatic impact g?n was able to get out the crank bolt
no problem. Thank goodness!
I bought this crank pulley holder tool to assist with torquing the bolt for the installation and it did not fit. Nothing a quick return mail to Amazon couldn?t fix. I ended up chocking the wheels really nice, ?rented? (bought and returned with the Autozone manager?s approval) a torque wrench capable of 250lb./ft. and I stopped at 218lb./ft. The recommended setting is 239lb./ft. Some people only tighten with the impact but I felt better going a little tighter without breaking the bolt.
Some more time passed and I was tired of the openings in my front bumper and decided to mount some black mesh for a different look.
At this time things are going good except I go to test drive the car after the major overhaul and my dad calls me as soon as I head out on the road. He tells me there is a puddle of fuel in the driveway so I immediately return. I?m wondering to myself how the heck did the fuel leak wait until I was test driving the car and it didn?t leak the evening before when I was running the car on the jack in the driveway lol.
Anyhow, back under the car. This gave me a nice opportunity to try out the new canopy I got during Amazon Day for when I?m working outside in the Florida sun.
I had repaired this line once before when it was leaking. This time I tried using 6,784 clamps at once (not really but you get the idea):
I removed the AN hose from the forward side of the hard line joint and I discovered that I could not insert an object very far into the hose. This led me to believe that the rubber inside was damaged and the leak was occurring at this point. I went to Autozone and purchased about a foot of rubber fuel rated hose with an ID of .5? to replace the damaged section that I would be removing. I discovered that the dudebro that ran the fuel system before me used a single flare to join the hardline to the AN hose and the edge was razor sharp:
I used sandpaper and smoothed this edge all around to where I could squeeze it with my hand and not be injured. I then joined the cut old hose to the new one and the new one to the existed steel line:
No more leaks!
