Quote:
Originally Posted by Tearlessj
Ok yea lets move on.
Does anyone have tubs with the factory fuse box in place? I would love to get this done to get rid of my rubbing issues, but I don't feel like relocating my harness.
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Wouldn't recommend it. Take the opportunity to relocate the fusebox inside the cabin, or replace it with a smaller fusebox and separate relay panel. Save weight, space, and you'll lose that huge fucking mess of wiring that goes over the driver's side wheel and under the core support.
Quote:
Originally Posted by thefro526
Steel.
The tubs have to be steel so that they can be welded to the chassis. (also steel)
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Yup, common sense.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboSE
plus Summits are so thin...the trailer fender I got were nice 16 (18 maybe) gauge steel...
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16 or 18ga steel is fine. It's the curved shape of the steel that gives it it's strength, not the thickness. I used .030" 4130 steel on mine.
I had the "standard" curved tubs when I was SR (I ran 18x10 +0 with 245/40/18s and rubbed all over, back and front) and made a few sets for other people, but didn't have enough room for the intake tube/filter next to the charge piping because they came so far forward. Decided to do something new with the RB25 setup, came out awesome... one of the most complimented parts of the car.
Started by mounting the wheel/tire, turning to full lock, and giving myself another 10* and 1" of space in front (that's about how much I had on top at full compression). Fab'd a 1/2" sch 40 square tube structure and used thin-wall steel (.030") to fully box it - extremely strong finished product, definitely stronger than the strut tower->firewall section of the frame.
Measure twice, cut once, swear, debate cutting again, use helping hand to nail fitment:
Cardboard template:
Bare metal:
Inside pass wheel well (after some evercoat z-grip, before rubberized undercoat):
Mid painting:
Finished:
