View Single Post
Old 03-03-2021, 09:53 AM   #98
Fuglychuki91
Zilvia Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Lansing michigan
Posts: 156
Trader Rating: (1)
Fuglychuki91 is on a distinguished road
Better late then never

Man, sorry for the lack of updates. The car has me slowly moving along. It got pretty cold and I hated being in a garage with no heat when it was below freezing. That being said I did still manage to wander out to my garage about 1-2 times a week.

So, i got the ka from my friend in and running. The car had a stupid issue with the idle where it would rev up to about 1.5k-2k cold but warmed up, it would idle at like 1k and falter down to like 500 rpm like it wanted to stall. I checked all the basic stuff like vac leaks, unplugging the maf to see if the maf was giving me issues. The car would almost want to stall with the intake cone filter on and ran better with it off.
So I switched back to the Oem intake and cleaned the maf. Still persisted. Checked the codes and have a recurring code 34(knock sensor) checked the voltage(4.9v) at the sub harness and the engine harness and had voltage through it so maybe the new knock sensor I got was a dud or the subharness is actually bad and maybe the shielded wire is just trash. My clusters cel has never worked and the last motor felt sorta sluggish even with the new knock sensor. I just never checked the codes so it may have been a issue on the last motor as well.

Anyhow, Im replacing the knock sensor and subharness this time around and Im going to check and see if that helps.


Removed the intake because I found what I believe was a small leak at the plenum gasket. Could be slightly uneven mating surfaces or I just failed to tighten everything enough. Anyhow, Im going to run a small bead of silicone with the new gasket and hopefully that squares it away.the knock code could have been due to the vac leak but im not totally sure. Along with that, Im replacing the injectors for some refurbished ones as well.
Ended up making a ugly plate for the iac and the air regulator under the intake. I I know I know, the factory ecu doesnt like to run without them but Im not spending to $200 dollars on a new Oem one and i dont really care if my idle is a bit high and if its super cold having troublesome cold starts. If I get annoyed enough Ill add it back. Cracked the tb and possibly drill some tiny holes in the throttle plate and adjust tps voltage accordingly. Chime in if you know anything about what Im doing and its helpful advice.







Also, to rule out fuel issues, i went ahead and hardwired the fuel pump and got a tee and liquid fuel pressure gauge just to install inline to help verify base pressure and things of that nature.




Still have some wiring to clean up as well.
so disregard the engine harness and loose wiring everywhere.

Ive tried swapping the ecu as well as far as the knock sensor code went and it presented the same outcome. Along with that I swapped out the old ass tps I had with a newer one I had laying around.

Also, ended up getting a 4.9 s14 diff off my buddy. Swapped the covers, got the stripped drain plug out of the s13 cover, new bolts and some solid bushings and a little paint goes a long way.





As far as suspension and interior goes, Ive been slowly using the interior/vinyl paint to convert some of the mismatch panels I had to black. I had blue door cards and a bunch of other small stuff. Next Ill be working on just other small parts and hopefully I can get it back together soon. Aside from that I bought a new seat. Ended up getting the thrashracing pro spec gamma with the yellow carbon/kevlar back.




Really wanted a bride maxis 2 or zieg 2 but that would never happen with todays inflation lol.
So zeta 1 will probably become passenger seat.
Suspension is pretty much buttoned up needing small adjustments to ride height and alignment but thatll happen when the car is back on the ground running.
Went back to 25mm extended arms vs the 38mm which made certain wheels difficult to fit but added grease zerks to the sleeves and installed Es Lca bushings and new moog ball joints. Worth mentioning the quality of the ball joints in the full moog arm is different from the separate ball joints that cost about as much as a full arm with ball joints already.





As usual, I sold some wheels and bought some more.
Advan rc2 17x9+35
‘96 Work rezax 1 17x9+10 with cool sized lips I polished. I need to still send the faces out so I can get some tires on them.

Sorry for the poor quality ig pics

Last edited by Fuglychuki91; 03-03-2021 at 10:51 AM..
Fuglychuki91 is offline   Reply With Quote