havent posted here in minute but ive still been knocking stuff out.
Knocked out the baffles yesterday, after work. Started with the sides then, mocking up the braking baffle test fitting it with the oil pump off the motor.
New pan held 8Qts to the edge without the oil pump, which probably takes up a quart. on the engine it should be close to 6Qts not including the oil cooler.
With a coat paint the oil pan gets the seal of approval and is ready to install. I didn't have time to install the pan before the sun went down and rain was coming so I removed the engine support beam and let the tranny lean on the tunnel to hold the motor up for few days so the hood could be closed.
A few days later the oil pan went on, no visable leaks. Then set about some finishing touches. With the new pan I ditched the thru tube and left open room to get to 3 bolts above the kick out. Some thing I also moved was the turbo drain which is now part of the timing chain cover. I'm not sure about this spot as the whole drain tube is about 45 degree slope but on the other hand if it went on the pan it would have been even harder to put those bolts in and the drain would now be below the oil line.
Next I set about making the cold intake for the turbo. But i started of with a bit of a problem. the air filter i ordered in theory was gona fit the in the fender. But, for some reason 10" seems a lot bigger once its in your hand. It was about 2 inchs to tall to fit in the fender so on the powerstroke it went. and I swapped the truck filter on to the 240 which was tapered cone of the same diameter, inlet size (6") and 2" shorter. I couldn't start building the intake tho as I was missing a 3" coupler.
I made a heat shield for the passenger side motor mount along with installed the proper length bolt, they have been loose till now.
I then moved onto electronics. I played with the FPCM but it only responds to 75-225Hz. Also tried low drive and low/high drive both act the same. But high drive does nothing. There are a few versions of this controller I wonder if mine does have a shut of. I'm done messing with this it works for what i need it.
Also got the turbo speed sensor working. The first time I started the engine that day It was at high idle at around 2300rpm cause of a DBW fault. But once I remedied the fault by pushing the throttle plate by hand it idle normal and the signal was gone. I have to do this every now and then, sometimes it just sticks after sitting, but after that it's fine. This throttle body came of a Honda Pilot flood car which the motor was hydro locked. The last shop I worked for would do a lot of subletted insurance work, so I got to do a lot of motor swaps and big suspension jobs. I pulled the compressor housing to see the sensor was recessed about 1mm. I took a file and slowly worked down the matting surface till it was flush. Its was still gone at idle but at 1100rpm the turbo is spinning fast enough to read, which is good enough for me as predicted full spool for 10psi is 2500-3000rpm. I'm Curious to why Borg Warner didn't set it close enough to constantly read or if did they feared contact with the compressor.
Yesterday I started off knocking out the last of the under car work. Welded flange nuts to a pair of 3/4" x 1/8" x 2" flat bars then bent em into 90s. Tacked them onto the dump pipes on car with the Mig then pulled them off and swapped cables on my machine to TIG them.
With more flat stock I made a bracket to connect each to the block. The front was simple but the rear got tricky.
Next came the Dakota Digital. I Split the output to both the cluster and ECU. Test run on the default settings before calibrating, It was reading pretty high 30mph idling in 1st... but this was the perfect time to answer an old question of mine. What's the max speed the NX1600 cluster will display? Turns out the internal circuitry maxes out at 299 not matter KPH or MPH. This was on Jack stands 2800rpm in 6th pictured is actually ~60mph. I haven't entered the calibration factor yet but, I do know to set it to 1/6 as the abs tone ring is 24 tooth will the factory speed sensor is 4 tooth.
There is very little left to do on the car now. Thursday imma knock out some more stuff then clean up the inside before going on the first test drive.