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Old 04-25-2010, 02:00 PM   #112
codyace
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Poconos, PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4le View Post
codayce:
Allot of the reason my power kept climbing is mostly due to the e85 and how I can safely keep throwing timing at it even at higher rpms. Im running 35* in the upper right of my timing map! Most gas sr's will not respond well to lots of timing up top and you are cut off on timing kinda early on gas sr's. I remember a dyno graph from australia (I may even be able to find it) where a fellow was running a stock t25 on a e85 sr and was making around 250 DD whp. The graph was SICK!
Undoubtedly. I would love to run 'essentially' race gas (e85) but it's simply nto common in my area. Your graphs are the exact 'result' I'd expect, and it's great to see someone push it a bit to show the capability with timing (and at the same time, showing how much timing really does effect overall power.

I love watching my friends tune the big power drag cars and say 'man I could make that power at 15 psi at 10psi if you ran some race gas hehe'.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4le View Post
What dyno were you tuning on? A DD will allow you to simulate any street condition. It also allows you go hold it at any rpm you want. DD is the best tool for tuning period.
For sure. Any load bearing/simulating dyno is better for tuning than a dynojet, I'll never disagree with that.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4le View Post
And the knock sensor on a pfc is not a high quality listening device either. Stock ecu tuning allows for the same exact feature, Its just most of us turn it off.
Yes. I know JWT is turned off past 4000 rpm simply beacuse of how finnicky and how unreliable the stock K/S are. Heck even the timing chains can throw off knock codes on Nissan motors...ask any VQ owner this


Quote:
Originally Posted by jspaeth View Post
This means that the OPTIMAL way to get from point A to point B fastest is to redline EVERY gear.

Now, in some cars, the torque drops off MUCH faster before redline....in CERTAIN scenarios, it MAY be beneficial to shift before redline.

This would require that the torque made at the NEW RPM (upon upshifting) multiplied by the ratio of the NEW GEAR RATIO/OLD GEAR RATIO is higher than the torque being made if you had just stayed in the lower gear.
For sure. This is why I'm a huge fan of the 4.6 final drive, as it really keeps the car in their maximum powerband. I could (honestly) care less about power before 3000 rpm,as I am never there in a 'race' situation. Street driving, as long as it's smooth I'm content. Don't mistake this as a ricer 'all i want his HP' statement, but it's just my view on it all. So a car makes 35 more hp at 2500 rpm. Woopy. Only time Im' there is in 5th gear on the highway, I'll take the less HP.

I was just curious that over a given distance if a car that ran out of gear (ised all the rpm), would be quicker from A-B than a car that stayed below the threshold.


Quote:
Originally Posted by HemiCharger View Post
Until a ROM tune gets a neat little commander that eliminates 4-5 analog gauges and monitors things like Knock, A/F, RPM, Speed, temperature etc etc. then the POWER FC still reigns supreme.
Mine logs A/F, RPM, Speed, Temperature, duty cycle, ...every sensor I have (aside form knock as it's turned off). We understand you like PFC, but we also understand that YOU HAVE A LIMITED (to no) CLUE about what you're even talking about. Please read, and not post. You're really cluttering this discussion up to the point where I want to PM a mod to just clean your garbage up. You're new to this I can see, but how many people need to tell you to be quit before you finally listen? jeepers creepers man, you're like that annoying fly at a bbq.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HemiCharger View Post
How could not make the same amount of power or better with a standalone than what you make with a ROM. You all make it sound like a ROM > Standalone which any tuner knows is not true.
Man, give it up! Nobody is doubting the greater flexability of the PFC, but what you can't seem to grasp is how well the ROM tune works for these 400 hp cars. Clark and Scott would be able to tune anything beyond 99% of the tuners out there...they've been doingn this longer than you've owned a car, they've had more ECU's created than you have probably changed lugnuts...why do you not accept that these guys are PROFESSIONALS that do regular tuning, and do rom tunes?


Quote:
Originally Posted by HemiCharger View Post
The damage would be done before you ever knew what happened?
Being that you know everything, I'd think you would know that our knock sensors are so slow, that the damage would be done before they even detect anything. If was really concerned over a solid knock reading, I'd get a real setup...but then again, you probably knew that...or your tuner knows...or you know what I mean.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HemiCharger View Post
I now run Nismo 740s and all is good. Of course some people will talk about how Doucheworks is a good company but not for me. I could have gotten a lawsuit for a new motor ready for them since I have friends that are attorneys. A product liability suit is a hard thing to prove though and you would have spent more money than it would have cost to fix it to begin with.
Serves your right for buying shady injectors, that are ticking time bombs. I assumed being that you're the pro you would have known that pushing injectors beyond their manufactured limit is a bad idea (hot coiling anyone??). I guess you learned the hard way.

PS: LOL at your lawsuit -- that would have never held up. Heck should I sue Nissan for a bad o ring because my stock engine ripped one out of the intake manifold? Or should I sue greddy becuase of it? it's the name of the game with modified stuff.

PLEASE STOP POSTING -- Sometimes members like you really turn me off from forums (and many others that are in this thread agree with me.



Quote:
Originally Posted by jspaeth View Post
Cody was just trying to reiterate that ROM tunes are a great option.
This has been my goal since day one. For people that don't live near a good tuner, or don't' have the 1000-1500 bucks for a standalone and tune, the ROM setup is really a great setup for a true street car. Im' glad some of the technical discussion came up, as it's been a while since we've had such conversion on here (better than the typical topics we see time and time again). Now if we could only convince HemiCharger to quit posting in here, as it's obvious his tuners words (I mean his knowledge) is a bit lacking -- this would be a great thread to learn in.
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