Quote:
Originally Posted by newkid99
I was gonna say, make sure you mark your valve buckets before pulling them, I made the same mistake and now I'm paying extra to have a machine shop do my whole head and get it right. By the way, how did you pull the cams without undoing the bolt in the front to get the sprocket off and relieve tension on the timing chain? I am for sure subbing to this build thread since you're doing almost identical build as me with similar power goals. I recommend a different clutch however, I bought a used exedy clutch and aluminum flywheel and had a local shop rebuild it, for 300 dollars I have a clutch that can handle 400+ hp reliably  and with 660 injectors and a disco potato turbo kit you could see 400hp, that's just the route I'm going though I also have 8.8:1 comp pistons, by the way don't forget s13 and s14 ka heads have different comp ratios. |
You recommend me going a different route on my FW/clutch? Also, clutches are rated in TQ not HP, and the ACT clutch kit I got is rated I believe somewhwere around 500ft-lbs TQ so I'm good in that department, plus it's a 250mm FW/clutch disc. Honestly, I think the chain was just stretched as It was pretty easy for me to remove once I removed the lower chain tensioner. I will be using my S14 KA head on the S13 KA block with 9.1:1 pistons. Yes, I labeled each one of my valve shims so I know exactly where they go so I don't run into that problem
. I havent decided yet if I want to go top or bottom mount turbo setup. If I go bottom mount, I'll be going with either codyace SR to KA manifold w/ 44mm external WG welded or Tomei's new cast manifold; I will pair either manifold with a GTX2867r. If I go top mount, I have no idea which manifold/turbo setup I want. I'm looking for a reliable 400whp DD.